How to Build a Deck Covering
A deck is a perfect place to entertain or to sit and read a book while watching squirrels run in the trees. If your deck is located on the south side of the house it can rapidly become too hot to enjoy. The deck's surface is somewhat reflective and will bounce heat and light inside your home. Because most people have a door going to the deck, it's likely that curtains, flooring and furniture will be subjected to the additional heat. It's time to cover that deck. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- 4" x 4" x 10' treated posts - one for each deck post
- Lag bolts, washers and nuts at least 6" long and ½" diameter
- 9/16" drill bit for wood (at least 6" long)
- Wrench to fit the lag bolt head
- Power screwdriver
- Box of 2" treated deck screws (zinc, stainless steel or high copper content)
- Box of 3-4" treated screws (zinc, stainless steel or high copper content)
- 2" x 6" boards (outdoor wood)
- 2" x 6" rafter hangers
- Access to a circular saw or table saw
- Vise
- Wire cutters
- Level
- Tape measure and pencil
- 1/8" wire
- Turnbuckles (2 per section)
- Large eyehooks (4 per section)
- Wire clamp for 1/8" wire
- Outdoor fabric
- Sewing machine
- Thread
- Scissors
- Bamboo polls
- Loop-style curtain clips
Instructions
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How To Cover A Deck
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Replace your deck posts one at a time with new 10-foot posts. Detach your deck railing where it connects to the existing post. Most railings are screwed or nailed into deck posts, so either pull the nails or remove the screws to detach the deck railings. Most existing deck posts are notched where they mount to the deck framing. Unbolt your existing deck post. Using your old short deck post as a template, mark your notch and lag bolt holes. Cut and drill the bottom of your new post matching the fit.
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Bolt the new posts to the framing under the deck using the lag bolts. If your old railing post wasn't bolted, then drill at least 2 lag bolt holes per post, they should be 4 inches apart and they should bolt securely to your deck framing. Move around your deck detaching railings and replacing old posts with new 10-foot posts and then re-attaching your railings.
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Mount 2-inch by 6-inch boards horizontally against your exterior house wall to match the width of your deck plus one foot (overhang your width by 6 inches on each side). The bottom of your boards should be at least 8 feet above the deck surface. Use your 3-4-inch screws to mount the wood through the siding and into the framework of the house.
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Mount rafter hangers in perpendicular alignment to your new deck posts. Mount 2 hangers per post (they will be 4 inches apart). Your cross boards will seat in the hangers and span your deck to mount on either side of your new posts. Measure and cut your cross boards so that they extend 1 foot beyond your deck post. You can cut the ends with a decorative treatment.
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Mount a 2-inch by 6-inch board horizontally across the outside of the end posts such that the top of the board will be at the bottom height of the cross member boards. You will use this board to support the bottom of your spanning cross boards. Check with your level. Use deck screws to screw these boards into your posts.
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Screw one eyehook to the inside of each board just past the outside edge of the post. Each eyehook should be 1 inch from the top of the board.
Loop one end of the wire into an eyehook and put the lead clamp over the wire. Use the vise to compress the clamp such that it doesn't slip. This eyehook will eventually mount 2 inches from the end of the board where the board fits into the hanger against the house wall. Do not mount the eyehook yet.
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Pulling your wire taut. You may need a friend to help holding your eyehook at the mark where it will mount later. Measure and fit the wire so that it threads into a turnbuckle (half extended) such that the turnbuckle hook can just fit into the other eyehook by the outside post. Mark your wire. Thread the wire and squeeze the clamp with the vise at your marking. Don't install your wired eyehook yet. One end of your wire should have an eyehook ready to install, and the other end should have a turnbuckle with a hook on it.
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Measure your outdoor fabric to span from the house to the post plus 18 inches, and plus 2 inches for every 18 inches of fabric. If you want a decorative end piece. add 12 inches more to your total. Each 2 inches creates a loop for a bamboo rod to support your covering.
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Cut and sew your fabric. Create a 1-inch loop on the end and every 18 inches fold the fabric face in and sew a 1-inch seam to create a rod pocket. Your number depends on your span length. You can vary the 18-inch calculation from 15 inches to 20 inches if that fits your dimensions better. If you add a decorative end it should hang down past your last bamboo rod pocket and face away from your house.
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Install your bamboo rods. Calculate your needed curtain rings by counting every bamboo rod. You will need 2 rings per rod. Slide the correct number of curtain rings onto the wire such that one side of your awning can be attached. Screw your loose eyehook to the inside of each plank on the mark you made earlier. Cut or trim the tops of your deck posts to your taste.
Install your new awnings by clipping the clips to the edge of each bamboo rod pocket. The face should face down toward the deck. The awnings should slide easily on the curtain rings.
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Tips & Warnings
Measure carefully based on your particular deck size. My application led to 5-foot wide panels. This worked well with fabric sizes and bamboo sizes. The sewing is straight and pretty simple. Slide your awnings back for rain or the bamboo will snap. Remove for winter. We keep our out of use curtain rings under the eaves to reduce rust on them.
This is a complicated project and should be done in steps so that you don't feel overwhelmed. Your awnings can be different widths and still look nice and you can mix fabrics and it will still look good.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit F.R.R. Mallory et.al.