How to Install a Drywall Ceiling

Installing a drywall ceiling is not complicated, but requires some physical effort. You'll be working overhead, often on low scaffolding or ladders, with heavy pieces of Sheetrock. Consider asking a friend help out or renting a drywall lift to make things easier.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Drywall, either 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch thick, in 4x8, 4x10, or 4x12 sheets
• Coarse drywall screws, 1-1/2 to 1-5/8 inches long
• Drywall square
• Battery powered drill
• Drywall bit for drill
• Drywall Jab Saw
• #2 Phillips bit for drill
• Drywall joint compound
• Drywall joint tub, 12 inch
• Paper Drywall Joint Tape
• 6, 8 and 10-inch drywall knives
• Utility knife and extra blades
• 120 and 220-grit drywall sandpaper
• 2x2 lumber
• 3-1/2 inch screws
• 25' tape measure
• Saw for cutting lumber
• Ladders or scaffolding
• Drywall lift (optional).
• Safety goggles (not glasses)
• Disposable dust masks

Preparation

1. Measure the center-to-center spacing of the rafters or joists the drywall will be attached to. If the spacing from the center of one center to the next is more than 16 inches, purchase 5/8-inch drywall, otherwise use 1/2-inch. In a bathroom, use moisture-resistant drywall.

2. Calculate the area of the room by measuring its length and width to determine how much drywall you'll need. If possible, use the largest sheets available, but take into consideration that you will have to get the drywall into the room in order to use it. If getting the drywall is not a problem, use the longer sheets if practical.

3. Determine if you will need to add lumber around the edges of the ceiling to screw the drywall to. You don't want to leave the edges unfastened unless it is less than 5 inches. This prevents the joints from cracking later. If you need to add lumber, do so before starting the drywall installation.

Installation

4. 
    
   Install parallel to 16 inch center rafters or joists.

   Begin in one corner of the room. Measure from the wall across the rafters to the rafter that is less than or equal to 48 inches from that wall. If it's 48 inches to the center of a rafter, you're ready to start, otherwise you need to cut the drywall along its length.

5. 
    
   Install perpendicular to joists if it makes sense.

   Cut drywall along its length using a Drywall Square. Measure from the edge that is to be against the wall and scribe a cut with the utility knife. Extend the cut along the length. You are just cutting through the paper, not the entire sheet. Stand the sheet on its long edge and push against the back side of the sheet. The drywall will snap along the cut line. Finish by cutting through the paper on the back side.

6. Hold the drywall against the ceiling, using a drywall lift or a helper. Install coarse drywall screws using your drill and drywall bit. The screws should dimple into the drywall, but not break the paper. Place screws a 1/2-inch from the edges and 12 inches apart, along each rafter.

7. Install additional sheets in a line until you finish the row. Cut the last sheet for length first, then cut the width. You can use the cut-off end to begin the next row unless it is very short. Staggering the joints in this fashion makes the ceiling less likely to crack along the joint.

8. Mark the BACK of the drywall when a cut-out for an electrical box, ceiling vent or other opening is needed. Measure to the four edges of the opening and mark them, then use a drywall jab saw or utility knife to cut out the area.

9. At the last row, cut to width and length if necessary and finish the ceiling.

Taping the joints

10. Fill the compound tub with joint compound and close the container. Using a 6-inch taping knife, apply compound to the length of a joint.

11. Press the paper tape into the compound along the entire joint. At the walls, leave about a 1-inch gap between the ceiling and the wall.

12. Use the 6-inch taping knife to smooth the tape, remove excess compound and then apply a thin coat compound over the tape.

13. Along the walls, apply compound to the wall-ceiling joints on both sides. Tear off a piece of tape the length of the joint and fold it along the center crimp in the tape. Release the fold and press the tape into the compound along the entire length of the joint.

14. Use the 6-inch knife to smooth the tape on the wall and the ceiling, removing excess compound and applying a thin coat over the tape as well. Allow the compound to set overnight.

Finishing

15. Use the 8-inch taping knife to knock off any ridges that were left from the taping process. If any areas of tape, even very small ones, are not bonded to the drywall, cut them away and add new tape.

16. Use the 8-inch knife to apply a second coat of compound to all the taped seams. Feather the edges out to a smooth finish. Where two beveled edges of drywall are butted together, the compound only needs to be eight inches wide at this point. Along non-beveled joints, make it about 10 to 12-inches wide. Only do one side of the wall-ceiling joints and make it 10-inches wide. Let the compound dry overnight.

17. Knock off any ridges with the taping knife. Apply a final coat using the 10- inch knife, feathering the edges. Make it at smooth as possible and fill in any gaps left behind. Along beveled seams, make the compound 10 inches wide; and 16 inches wide along the others. Finish the second coat on the wall to ceiling joints. Let it set overnight.

18. Again, use a knife to knock off any ridges. Begin with 120-grit sandpaper mounted on a drywall sanding block. Sand all the joints smooth. Along the wall-ceiling joints, use care not to sand a groove into the ceiling or wall.

19. Switch to 220-grit sandpaper or screen and give it all the once over again. Close your eyes and run your fingertips along the seams, particularly the feathered edges. If you can feel a ridge or transition, you'll see it when you paint. Sand them smooth.

20. Clean all the dust up thoroughly. Wipe the ceiling down with a slightly damp cloth. Allow the compound to cure one more day before adding the first coat of primer.

Tips & Warnings

• When staggering joints, don't use pieces less than 3-feet long. Three-foot long pieces are a good starting point and can be up to 9-feet long when using 4x12 sheets. Try to use pieces close to half the length of the drywall sheets you are using but don't waste material trying to be exact. Investing in a pair of 3 to 5-foot long bench type scaffolds will make the job a lot easier than using a ladder. They make taping and finishing knives for corners. Some people love them, others hate them. It's your choice and if you like them, the extra $10 or so may be worth it in a large room. Most home centers rent professional drywall sanders. They tend to be a bit pricey to rent, anywhere from $50 to $100 once you buy the supplies. In a larger room, they'll be worth it. They suck up most of the dust and do a nice finishing job. You'll still have to hand sand the inside portion of the wall-ceiling joints though, they don't reach in there. If working with a friend instead of a lift, construct a pair of holding Tees out of 2x4 lumber. Make the leg of the Tee just longer than the ceiling height. It will make holding the drywall in place that much easier as you screw it in.
• Wear safety goggles, not glasses. Glasses allow debris to fall into your eyes when working overhead. Always wear a dust mask when cutting or sanding drywall. The holding strength of a screw in drywall is dependent on NOT tearing through the paper. If you accidentally tear through the paper when driving in a screw, back it out and move it over a couple of inches.

References

• More Drywall Installation Information
• Video on Drywall Finishing
• Ten Drywall Finishing Tips