How to Prune Crimson King Maple Trees
Crimson king maple trees, also called Norway king maple trees, are prized for their summer purplish green foliage. These large shade trees can be pruned in early spring, when buds begin to swell, or late summer. Prune young trees to establish a strong structure. To do this remove branches that grow into the crown. For mature trees, prune to maintain a symmetrical crown and for health. All diseased and dead wood should be removed and branches that touch or cross other branches should be removed. Always stop and check the shape of your tree after removing a branch. There is no way to hide a bad pruning and it can take years for your maple to recover. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Pruning shears
- Pruning saw
- Extension for pruning saw
- Extension ladder
- Chainsaw
Instructions
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Pruning Crimson King Maples
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Start by removing any broken or diseased branches. Remove them back to the nodes (where twigs attach to branches) or to the branch collar (the point where the branch attaches to the tree). Make cuts at a 45-degree angle, with the top of the cut closest to the branch or tree.
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Remove branches that are growing toward the center of the tree (called crossing branches) or branches that rub or touch another branch.
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Have your electric company or phone company prune back any branches that are near or touching electrical wires or phone lines.
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If you want more light and have a mature tree, remove the branches on the bottom 6 feet of your tree (called limbing).
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Tips & Warnings
For mature trees, remove large branches in sections, working from the tip of the branch in toward the trunk. Always evaluate your tree before making any cuts. Use chalk or spray paint to mark the branches you want to remove. For mature trees, consider hiring a professional tree pruner. Professionals have the equipment (cherry picker, safety harnesses) to remove limbs from the canopy.
Never cut off branches that are touching electrical wires. Call your electric company or fire department. Never remove more than 1/4 of the living tree in one year. Always make cuts outside of the bark collar. Don't use wound compounds to coat the cut wood; it only delays healing.
