How to Alter Double Breasted Mens Suits
Unlike the typical suit jacket, a double-breasted suit jacket has overlapping front layers with two parallel rows of buttons. One layer is passed over the other layer and buttoned to the outer row of buttons. Altering a double breasted suit is the process of tailoring it to fit the wearer's body in a more comfortable and fitted manner. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
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Put on the double-breasted suit and button it, wearing it over a dress shirt, to get an accurate idea of how it will fit when worn in typical circumstances. Stretch the measuring tape from the outside edge of the left shoulder to the outside edge of the right shoulder. Use the clothing chalk to mark where the suit meets the shoulders. The excess cloth outside of the chalk marks will need to be cut.
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Note the length of the suit jacket from the collar area to the bottom of the back. The suit should end just at the bottom of the wearer's buttocks. If the suit goes beyond this, mark the correct length with the chalk.
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Stand behind the wearer and take each side of the suit between the shoulders and the waist. Pull back on the suit slightly so that the middle is narrower than the top or bottom. A properly fitted double-breasted suit should be snug, but loose enough so that there are no radiating wrinkles. If there is excess cloth, pin the extra back using safety pins so that the tailor knows where to make the alteration.
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Instruct the wearer to let his arms dangle at his side. Inspect where the suit's arms end. For proper fitting, the arms should end at the wrist so that ½ inch of the dress shirt's sleeve cuff is visible beyond the suit jacket. If the suit is too long, pin back the sleeves to the right length.
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Take the double-breasted suit to a tailor and have the tailor alter it. A tailor is a professional capable of making alterations to suits and their unique fabrics, cuts and seams. While it is possible to alter a suit at home on a sewing machine, most sewing machines used by consumers are not capable of full-scale suit alterations.
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Tips & Warnings
Take the suit to a tailor to have it altered to prevent expensive mistakes when cutting and sewing the unique fabrics of a suit jacket.