Fences serve several purposes: They keep people out of your yard, they keep animals and kids in your yard, and they define the area. Fences are made from many different materials including wood, chain-link, wrought iron, and plastic netting. Before building your fence, clearly define what the purpose of the fence is in order to decide on its height, its durability and desired appearance. All these factors will influence the materials that you use. Chain-link fences are very durable and aluminum chain-link fences are lighter than steel.
Things You'll Need
- Post hole digger
- Concrete mixing drum
- 2 end posts
- Roll of aluminum chain-link mesh
- Top rail
- Hack saw
- Tension bars
- Tension bands
- Brace bands
- Tie wires
- Rubber mallet
- Fence Puller
Place stakes just beyond where the two end posts will go. Wrap twine around one stake and run it to the other stake to create a straight line for the fencing.
Dig the holes for the end, or corner, poles first. Dig these holes 7 1/2-inches wide and 2 1/3 feet deep for 4-foot high fences.
Dig the other post holes 5 inches wide and 2 1/3 feet deep. Shovel 4 inches of gravel into each hole, including the corner and end post holes, and use the shovel handle to pound the gravel level.
Mix the concrete with water by adding both to a concrete mixing drum. Roll the drum for 2 minutes until the concrete mix is thick but thoroughly damp. If the concrete is not completely wetted, add a small amount of water, 1 cup or less, and roll again.
Pour 6 inches of concrete into the end, or corner hole, insert the post in the middle of the hole, and adjust the post until it's vertical. Have an assistant hold the pole in place and fill the hole the rest of the way with concrete, frequently checking that the post is still vertical. Finish all the end or corner posts and allow the concrete to dry for three days.
Put three tension bands over each of the corner posts, followed by the cap and a brace band, which will attach to the end of the rail cap. The tension bands will attach to the tension bar once it's inserted into the fencing. Use the rubber mallet to set the caps and bolt a rail cap to each of the brace bands loosely. Put the looped caps on each of the interior posts.
Put a post in each of the empty holes and slide the rail through each of the post's looped caps. Insert the rail into the rail caps and tighten the bolts on the brace bands. If the rail is too long, cut it to fit with a hacksaw.
Fill the post holes with dirt and pound the dirt with the end of your shovel handle.
Unroll the chain-link fencing on the ground next to the posts and weave a tension bar into the end of the fencing. Stand the fencing up with an assistant's help and secure the tension bar to the three tension bands with a bolt. The top of the fencing should extend beyond the top rail by 2 inches and be 1 to 2 inches off the ground. Don't let the fencing touch the ground to prevent corrosion.
Insert the pull bar into the chain link 1 foot beyond the other end or corner post. Secure the fence puller to a tree, vehicle or other sturdy object. Ratchet the handle of the fence puller and pull the fence tight. You want the fence mesh to flex less than 1/4 inch. Tighten the fence puller until the fence is tight.
Adjust the fence height. Weave another tension bar through the fencing near the end pole so that you can attach the three tension bands to the tension bar. Loosen the fence puller. Pry open the top and bottom loop of the fencing next to the post and wiggle the wire up and out of the chain link separating the excess fencing. Do not remove the wire holding the tension bar in place.
Attach the fence to the top rail every foot with the tie wires.
Tips & Warnings
- Exercise caution while using the fence puller.
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