How to Build a Garden Fence Gate

Whether your garden gate is purely functional or if it's sole purpose is to enhance the feel of your garden, you still need one. Keeping unwanted animals out or encouraging people to visit the garden; garden gates serve a dual purpose one that says stay out, and the other that says all are welcome. Hopefully this project will secure the garden and hint at the hospitality of the owner.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• table saw
• electric drill
• 1/4 inch spade bit
• hammer
• pull saw
• block plane
• 1 inch chisel
• 4 bar clamps
• water resistant wood glue
• two 1/4 x 6 inch lag screws with washers
• 14 gauge 2inch by 4inch welded wire. A piece that is 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide.

1. 
    

   I'll start with the decorative portion of the gate first. I've cut four pieces of pressure treated 2x6s to 36 inches in length. These boards will be glued up so I can make the arch for the gate. This part of the build will also be the most time consuming.

2. 
    

   I'm power planing the edges of the 2x6s so I will have a nice flat gluing surface with a very tight and almost invisible joint. The same procedure can be accomplished with a hand plane. If you don't own one or know someone who has one they can be rented at an equipment rental center.

3. 
    

   The power planer took the majority of material off, but I still needed to true up the edge a little bit with a block plane.

4. 
    

   After planing the edge of the 2x6 check it frequently with a straight edge. Try to get it to where there is no day light between the straight edge and the edge of the 2x6.

5. 
    

   When all edges of the 2x6s have been planed flat apply a made for exterior application, water resistant glue.

6. 
    

   Line up the four boards, after gluing, and clamp together snugly - don't over tighten you'll just succeed in making the boards slide out of alignment.

7. 
    

   Once the boards have dried get a pencil, a length of string (24inches), a hammer and nail and a tape measure. Measure 18inches, to the center of the 36inch boards, tap a nail into that center point along the bottom edge. Tie the string around the pencil and wrap the other end around the nail, adjust the length of string until the pencil is at the outside edge of the board. Now draw your arc, if you're centered the pencil will start at one edge and finish flush with the other edge.

8. 
    

   Shorten the string 5 1/2 inches and draw the second arc - this will be the inside of the arch.

9. 
    

   Shorten the string to 4 inches, and draw the arc for the hub.

10. 
     

    The placement of the spokes will be drawn in now, this will give you an indication of the angle the holes will need to be drilled at. Use a measuring square or a protractor to find 20 degrees, 55 degrees and 90 degrees. This placement of the spokes is what looks good to me, feel free to change it.

11. 
     

    Now cut out the arch and hub. I used a jigsaw, it took forever to cut through the pressure treated wood, use a band saw if you have one it'll make life a lot easier.

12. 
     

    Here I put a decorative edge on the bottom and top of the arch and hub pieces. It isn't necessary - just thought it might add to that welcoming air.

13. 
     

    Here is an edge detail.

14. 
     

    Here is the finished arch and hub pieces.

15. 
     

    I used my panel square to find the center line of the inside arch and the center line of the hub. Line up the square with an inch mark, any inch mark - it doesn't make a difference, let the top of the square rest on the arch, that is lying flat on the bench, and measure 3/4 inches down and mark your center line. Draw a line down from the spoke indicator line and make a mark - this is where you'll drill the spoke hole.

16. 
     

    Here is a close up for drawing the center line of the hub. Again, transfer the spoke indicator line down across the center line for the location of the spoke hole.

17. 
     

    I'm using 3/4 inch dowels so I've drill 3/4 inch dowel holes - naturally. Drill the holes in the hub piece 1/2 inch deep, just mark 1/2 inch deep on your spade bit or drill bit with electrical tape or a permanent marker. I drilled the holes in the arch 1 inch deep just for a little play if I need it. The length of the dowels is 9 3/4 inches.

18. 
     

    Next apply glue to spokes and spoke holes and assemble on a flat surface.

19. 
     

    After assembly I used the cut out scrap piece of the arch, because it's the same width and it still had the center mark. Line up the center of the hub piece to the center of the 36 inch scrap piece. Make sure that the hub and arch ends sit flush on the scrap piece, now that every thing lines up use one clamp in the center to hold the piece snugly until dry.

20. 
     

    Here is the finished arch awaiting final sanding. I added some 5 inch dowels and 1 1/2 x 3/4 inch disks as finials to complete the sunburst pattern. Use the same procedure as steps 15 and 16 to find the center line on the outside of the arch and transfer the spoke indicator lines across it.

21. 
     

    This is the gate section - it'll go faster I promise - two 2x6s are cut to 36 inches in length and two more 2x6s are cut to 47 1/2 inches in length. The ends will be half lapped to add strength and rigidity to the gate. A 2x6 is 5 1/2 inches wide, measure 5 1/2 inches from the end of each piece and draw a vertical line, mark the section with an 'X' where material will be removed. Exactly half the width of these sections will be removed to make the half lap.

22. 
     

    I've used a table saw to cut the teeth in the 2x6. To make these cuts set the saw blade to 3/4 inches high and adjust the fence to 5 1/2 inches from the saw blade minus the width of the saw blade. Run the piece through making as many or as few cuts as you wish - the more cuts the easier it is to knock out the teeth.

23. 
     

    Knock out the teeth.

24. 
     

    The cleaned up notch. Use a block plane or 1 inch chisel to clean up the notch.

25. 
     

    Here is the finished half laps, ready for glue up.

26. 
     

    Measure corner to corner with your tape measure to make sure the gate is square. If it isn't you'll have to do a little adjusting to get the measurements the same - whether it's a little tapping or a lot of sawing.

27. 
     

    Same procedure as step 19, glue up the half laps and clamp down.

28. 
     

    Next tack in 14 gauge, 2inch by 4inch welded wire to close in the gate section.

29. 
     

    Here's the gate section with welded wire installed.

30. 
     

    I'm drilling two 3/4 inch holes, diagonally in all corners, for pegs as a decorative effect.

31. 
     

    Like this.

32. 
     

    Tap in the dowel and saw off flush, glue in the dowel after it's cut to size. The pull saw works great for flush cuts.

33. 
     

    The finished gate section with decorative plugs.

34. 
     

    Recess a 3/4 inch hole at a 35 degree angle, or so on both sides of the arch, then pre-drill a hole through the arch section to receive a 1/4 x 6 inch lag screw.

35. 
     

    Here's a closeup of the joined arch and gate section.

36. 
     

    The finished gate. Add heavy duty hinges and a sliding latch and your garden gate is ready for summer.

Resources

• eHow Home and Garden Topic Guide

[jillmaria]

on 9/6/2009 Wow, what a detailed, informative article. I wish my boyfriend had these plans this spring. We will try it next year. Thanks and 5 stars!!

[lilolladystuff]

on 6/23/2009 This is a very detailed article. Thank you for the great advice.

[greatgreat8]

on 6/19/2009 great article

[reflect]

on 6/14/2009 How cool is this?! You nailed this article. Great design, clear cut explanations, superior photos to accompany it. It was a pleasure going through the process with you. 5*+R

[jenng]

on 6/13/2009 great article on how to buil a garden fence gate 5*