Things You'll Need:
- Safety (one-sided) razor blade
- Damp cloth
- Denatured alcohol
- Tube of latex or "water-based" caulk
- Damp sponge
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Step 1
Remove all of the old caulk from the area. Silicone caulk will be more rubber-like and will remove well with a razor blade. Hardened latex caulk might come off easier if you heat it first with a heat gun or hair dryer, then use the razor blade.
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Step 2
Wipe the area clean of all debris, using a vacuum if necessary to remove all excess bits from between the wall and the tub or sink. Do not soak the area to clean it. Just wipe the surface and clear away any mildew with a mild soap or mildew cleaner.
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Step 3
Prepare the area by wiping it with some alcohol over the tile and tub. This should help clear out any leftover water and strip the surface so the caulk can hold better. If the area, especially behind the tile, seems to be moist, allow it to sit overnight with a fan running before adding caulk. If the area is not dry, you don't want to seal in the moisture behind the tile.
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Step 4
Working from the corners out, apply your caulk in a narrow ¼-inch bead along the joints needed. It is usually best to work the back wall vertical joint lines, then the back wall horizontal line, followed by the narrow sides of the tub. Work quickly but cleanly so the caulk doesn't have time to "skin" over.
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Step 5
Moisten your finger and run in over the caulk line, pressing the caulk into the joint. At any point you feel there is too much excess caulk on your finger, wipe it on the sponge. Too much caulk will give an unfinished and unprofessional look. If you didn't use enough caulk, apply a bit more to the area needed and wipe with your wet finger. Remember to work quickly.
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Step 6
Let the caulk dry for at least 24 hours and do not allow anyone to use the tub or shower until you are satisfied it is fully cured. If your brand of caulk calls for a longer period of time than this, go with the directions on the caulk for drying times.
