How to Plant Pyramid Arborvitae as a Privacy Fence
A living fence of pyramid arborvitae can provide privacy and a wind break. It can also block an unsightly view. Pyramid arborvitae planted at the shortest recommended spacing will grow to form a solid fence at a height of about 20 to 30 feet. Arborvitae bloom in spring and their foliage is evergreen. They grow best in the USDA Plant Hardiness zones 2 through 7. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Arborvitae plants
- Shovel
- Pitchfork
- Garden compost
- Fertilizer for acid soil-loving plants
Instructions
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How to Plant Pyramid Arborvitae as a Privacy Fence
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1
Select the site where you will plant the arborvitae. The site should be in full sun to part shade. Arborvitaes grow well in either clay or sandy soil, providing certain conditions exist. If your soil is clay, make sure the soil doesn't stay saturated after watering; the water should drain out of the soil within an hour or so. If your clay soil doesn't drain promptly, add a 5-gallon bucket of peat moss to the soil removed from each planting hole and mix the 2 together before backfilling. Add approximately the same amount of peat moss to sandy soil to hold in moisture and keep water from draining out too soon. Peat moss will remedy both problems. It both holds moisture and lightens soil, allowing water to drain promptly.
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2
Determine the length of the proposed living fence. Pyramid arborvitae planted as a living fence should be planted 5 feet apart, measured from trunk to trunk.
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3
Determine the number of plants needed to complete the fence. Divide the proposed length of the living fence by the number of feet apart that the arborvitae will be planted. For a 50-foot fence with plants spaced 5 feet apart, purchase 10 plants. Arborvitae is available potted in gallon-size nursery pots, bare root, or balled and burlapped.
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4
Prepare planting holes. Dig planting holes spaced 5 feet apart. Make each hole about 2 feet deep and 2 feet across. Place 1 or 2 shovels of regular garden compost in the bottom of each planting hole. Use a pitchfork to loosen the soil under the compost, and then turn the soil over with the shovel, mixing the compost with the soil in the bottom of the planting hole.
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5
Plant the arborvitae. Remove from the container in which it is growing. If the plant is balled and burlapped, leave the wrapping in place and cut the rope ties after placing in position in the hole. Place in the center of the planting hole. Arborvitaes should be planted at the same depth they were previously growing. Adjust the depth by either adding or removing soil from under the root ball until the plant sits at the same depth as it was growing at the nursery. An easy way to judge this is that the part of the trunk that was underground will normally be a slightly darker color. Place it so the darker color will be underground in its new location.
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6
Backfill the planting hole with the dirt you removed (including the peat moss). Tamp down the soil by firmly stepping on the soil in the planting hole. Don't get carried away; you want to firm the soil, not compact it.
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7
Hill up the soil around the edge of the planting hole. This will form a saucer-like depression around the plant and help to catch water and send it down to the roots.
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8
Water each plant thoroughly immediately after planting. Fill the saucer-like depression around the plant with water, let it drain and then fill it again.
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9
Fertilize with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants, such as one for evergreens, azaleas and/or blueberries. Apply at the rate recommended by the manufacturer of the fertilizer.
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10
Water plants once a week during the first year after planting. Use a soaker hose and lay it about 6 inches from the trunks of the trees. Water applied directly to the roots is a more efficient way of watering and reduces the possibility of fungus diseases attacking wet or damp foliage.
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Tips & Warnings
To determine if your soil is sandy or clay, the day after a soaking rain, squeeze a handful. If the soil stays together without breaking apart, your soil is clay. If the soil breaks up in your hand after you squeeze it together, your soil is sandy. If the soil clump stays together after you squeeze it but breaks apart when you poke it with your finger, you have the sought-after loam that gardeners wish for (and which will grow nearly anything well).
