How to Install a Stair Railing

More family members are injured in stairway accidents than anywhere else in the home. This statistic underscores the importance of maintaining a clear and secure stair passage way. Another important addition or upgrade to your stairway is a stair rail. Even if you have a rail and baluster on one side of the stairs, a narrow, unobtrusive rail on the other side of the stairs can only add to their safety. Installation of such a rail is inexpensive and easy to do. Just follow the stops outlined in this article.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Stud Finder
• Tape Measure
• Drill
• Screwdriver
• Rail and Bracket
• Saw

1. 
   Installed Brass Bracket

   Common stair rail height is 32" to 34" from the stair tread. This can vary if you have special needs, for example, if you install the rail for children to use. You will need to purchase hand rail materials, so measure the length of the staircase before going to the home center for materials. I always buy a little more, just in case. You will need hand rail brackets, at least one for every 32" of run, plus one for each end. These cost from $4-5 each for brass finish. Local building code may state specific requirements for the number and placement of brackets. I have used one for each stud. You can use one on every other stud, and probably be within code. I would not recommend going further than that. The wood hand rail material varies in cost based on type of wood, but you can expect to pay about $4 per foot for solid wood.

2. 
   Installing Brackets

   Locate the wall studs along the stairway. Measuring up 32" or 34" from the stair tread, make a mark on the wall. Measure at every stud along the route of the rail. I like to place a bracket just a few inches from either end of the rail, so I mark those positions too.

3. 
   Attaching the Rail

   It is customary to cut a 45 degree angle at the ends of the rail. So, when measuring to cut your rail, be sure to allow for this angle at the end. Then, I suggest that you sand the exposed edge of the angled cut, to round it slightly. This ensures that it will not catch on clothing or scratch anyone. If you are using unfinished rail material, decide if you are going to paint or stain it. It is best to apply the finish before your attach the brackets. Sand the rail smooth, then apply the finish of choice. Attach the brackets to the stud locations you marked earlier. Use supplied screws and be sure they are driven squarely and tightly into place. Be sure you keep the bracket plumb to insure a good match to the rail.

4. Finally, attach the rail to the bracket. In this installation, the bracket has two parts: the brass base that attaches to the wall, and the rounded segment, with two pre-drilled holes, that connect the base to the rail material. Make these connections securely. Give your new rail a test drive and you're done.

Tips & Warnings

• You may want to snap a chalk line along your stud marks to help insure an even installation.
• You can do this job yourself, but a helper is a great idea when attaching the rail to the brackets. The long rail segments can be hard to handle.
• If your rail feels "prickly" after you have finished and installed it, rub it gently with "000" steel wool. If the rail is uncomfortable to grip, people may not use it. Make it smoooooooth.
• You are working on the stairs. Be careful.
• For brackets near the ends of the rail, where there may be no stud, use plastic anchors, molly or toggle bolts. You can't just screw into drywall and expect it to hold.
• For handicapped access, there are special railing systems. Be sure to get the right materials for your needs.
• There are different styles of rail and brackets. Select what suites your decor, but error on the side of too many, not too few. Brackets can pull out of the wall under strain, so more brackets provide backup.
• Don't wax the rail. It should be smooth, but not slippery.

[starlet67]

on 5/23/2009 Good info and pics for installing a Stair Railing!5*