How to Build Your Own Cheap Computer

It seems you can get a pre-built computer from just about anywhere. Still, if you really want to get a new PC on the cheap or just want to see what it takes to build one, this guide will give you the basics to get up and running.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Basic components of a PC
• PC with Internet connection and CD burner to create new machine's OS
• PC toolkit or a Phillips screwdriver and a 3/16-inch socket driver
• Grounded 3-prong 110v AC power outlet (USA)
• Surge protector 6-outlet power strip designed for 110v AC power (USA)

Gathering the Parts (Your Mileage May Vary)

1. Take an inventory of what you have. If you're like most PC enthusiasts, you may have an odd collection of PC components already lying around. Many of these can be recycled into a working PC, reducing its overall cost. Maybe your friends have old PC parts they don't need. Ask.
   No need for brand names or model numbers, just jot down the basic facts about each component. If you can't determine the facts about a certain component, look up its model number on the Web.

2. Make a checklist with these requirements:
   - PC case
   - Power supply
   - Motherboard (with video, LAN and sound*)
   - CPU
   - CPU cooling fan
   - RAM
   - Hard disk
   - CD/DVD drive, internal or external (for installing the OS)
   - Keyboard
   - Mouse
   - Monitor
   * Many motherboards come with "integrated" features, such as a video adapter, Ethernet port and sound ports. Unless you've already got a working motherboard, you'll have to find a bundle that has all three. Any one of these features can be upgraded down the road.

3. Check off each item that you already have, but make a note of the exact type, size power rating, connector and/or capacity of the item. You will be checking for compatibility later on, so this is important.

4. Look to the "Additional Resources" for this article, where you will find links to some well-known sources for new, used, refurbished and clearance items a decent price.
   Some tips for shopping: If you don't already have the case, power supply, motherboard or CPU, you can usually find them bundled together as "bare bones" or "kits." When bundled together, the price generally goes way down compared to getting these components separately. Some bundles have just a motherboard and CPU; others throw together a complete system that's just "some assembly required." You also get some "protection" with bundled hardware; if the parts don't work together, then you get your money back.
   If you're shopping for a motherboard and you already have a CPU, RAM or hard disk, take a close look at the specifications before you buy. Buying an incompatible component is just like burning money; even if you can return it, you will have to pay to ship it back.
   If you're buying a case, keep in mind that some are sold without the power supply. If a case seems like a really great deal, it could be because the power supply is sold separately.
   If you do end up buying a power supply separately, check that it will provide enough power for the motherboard and CPU. A good guess would be "450w" or higher, but look at the motherboard specifications to be sure. Some retailers are nice enough to put a recommended power supply right on the page.
   Unless the CPU, motherboard and RAM are bundled together, pay close attention to "supported CPU" and "supported RAM" details for compatibility.
   If you contact a private seller, ask him to test the product in front of you before any money changes hands. If it's on the level, he shouldn't have a problem with it; otherwise let him know it's a no sale.
   If lowest price is your top priority, just be sure that the parts are compatible before you buy. Use your checklist to keep track of what you choose.

Some Assembly Required

5. If the motherboard is already installed in the case, skip to Step 10.
   Open both side panels on the case. In a typical (ATX) case---looking at it from the front---the left side is where you work on most of the internal components; the right side exposes the back of the motherboard panel and some drive-bays.

6. If you can remove the motherboard panel easily (by removing a single screw, for instance), remove it from the case so you can install the motherboard more easily. If the motherboard panel is permanently attached, lay the case down (on its right side) so the motherboard panel is at the bottom.

7. If the power supply is already installed, remove the four screws on the back that hold it in and remove it, just for now. Also, the case will have wires coming from the front panel. You will connect those last, so push them out of the way for now.
   Loosely spin the screws back into the power supply to keep track of them.

8. Unpack the motherboard completely and find the small, metal plate with holes that match the interface ports, also called a "template" (keyboard, mouse, video, printer, LAN, USB and sound ports). If the case already has such a template installed, replace it with the template that came with the motherboard.

9. Carefully lift the motherboard and match up the mounting holes with the motherboard panel below it. If the motherboard panel is not removable, make sure it lines up with the template.
   Not all motherboards are made exactly the same, and that goes for the PC cases as well. Many PC-case manufacturers will predetermine the motherboard mountings, but it's up to you to determine the right fit.

10. Add the brass or metallic fittings---also called "standoffs"---to the motherboard panel where the mounting holes will go. Keep checking to be sure that every mounting hole is counted. Use the 3/16-inch socket to tighten screw-in brass fittings. Other PC cases will use "clip standoffs" that snap in to the motherboard panel.

11. If the case comes with a number of small, colored "o-shaped" bits, those are insulated washers. They need to go between the standoffs and the motherboard; yes, it is easier said than done.
    One option is to moisten a side of each washer and gently "stick" them to each standoff and gently put the motherboard on top.
    Another method is to use very small amounts of the CPU thermal paste (there's always some left over) to gently hold the washers on the standoffs. Inspect your work later to see if any washers fall off.
    When all standoffs are in place (with washers on them) carefully set the motherboard on top of the fittings, lined up with the interface plate, and add the screws. Spin each screw so it is threaded but not tightened.

12. Use the Phillips screwdriver to tighten the motherboard screws in a "criss-cross" fashion around the motherboard. If you removed the motherboard panel earlier, secure it back into the case now.
    Check to see that the interface ports line up with the template on the back of the case.

13. Now put the power supply in, securing it with the four screws. Attach the motherboard power supply connector. Plug in the AC cord to the power supply, making sure it, or the surge protector, is switched off---and plug in the surge protector so that power is supplied all the way from the wall outlet.
    Now the PC case should be grounded. The User Manual or "Quick Start Guide" that came with the motherboard will give proper instructions for connecting it.
    Take all other power supply wires and drape them outside the case.
    If the power supply has a "probe" wire (yellow wire with three-pin block at the end) connect it to the fan-power connector on the motherboard.

14. Look to the motherboard guide for information on installing the CPU and the heat sink/fan assembly, if it didn't already come preinstalled.

15. Now it's time to add memory, before the inside of the case is tangled up with cables and wires. If your RAM modules came preinstalled, skip this step.
    Unpack the RAM module(s), adding heat spreaders if you wish, then carefully place them in the appropriate socket. Firmly press the RAM module into the socket until the latches at both ends "click" into place.
    RAM modules are designed to fit only one way in the sockets. Hold the RAM module next to the socket and find the notch; it should line up with a "bump" in the socket. Some motherboards have different types of RAM sockets right next to each other, so be sure you are inserting your RAM modules into the correct sockets.

16. Unpack the hard disk and the CD/DVD drive and secure them into the available "bays" with at least two mounting screws each. If your case is equipped for it, use the appropriate mounting bracket.
    Some cases that use mounting brackets don't need mounting screws at all.
    The drive bay for the CD/DVD drive may have plates or plastic panels covering the opening. The metal plates can often be pried out by gently twisting them back and forth until they come loose. The plastic cover should be a snap-in part and come off easily by pushing on it from the inside.

17. Connect the drives to the motherboard ports, using one cable for the hard disk and another for the CD/DVD drive (better performance). For IDE drives, check that both the hard disk and the CD/DVD drive are set as "master," then attach the data cable.

18. Notice how many connectors and what type of connectors are on each strand of power supply cables. The wide, four-pin blocks are called "Molex" connectors. The power supply may also have SATA-power connectors, which are narrow with an "L" shaped slot on the end and usually colored black. The shortest strand with a Molex should go to the hard disk. The next-shortest should go to the CD/DVD drive. If one is left over, use it for the case amenities.
    Connect power to the hard disk and CD/DVD drives. If you purchased a bundle that includes a floppy drive, find the power supply strand that has the small, four-pin connector at the end and hook it up, too.

19. Next you'll hook up all the case amenities, things like the power switch, fans and any front-access USB, "firewire" or audio ports. The manual or "Quick Start Guide" that came with the motherboard should give you the necessary details for this step, and it should contain a diagram of where all these connections may be found.
    Connect the case amenities to the motherboard, and connect power to PC case fans. If the power supply has an extra strand, use it for all of the case fans; otherwise, use the same power strand that connects to the CD/DVD drive.
    This step requires some problem solving, and not all motherboards will be fully compatible with all PC cases. Use your best judgment on what features are most important to you.

20. Refer to the motherboard manual for tips on setting the BIOS for the first time and installing drivers. All you need from here is the installation CD to boot and install the operating system; see Resources to more popular operating systems, including the absolutely free operating system, Linux.

Tips & Warnings

• There are a number of very small parts involved with assembling a PC---mostly small screws. Keep track of these small parts with plastic containers or anything that can organize small items, like a pill box. Online retailers usually have the best prices, which is why this guide recommends them. Purchasing all equipment from the same online retailer usually saves on shipping costs. When an online retailer features "free shipping," and a competitor has the same item for just a few dollars less, take the item that has free shipping to save anywhere from $3 to $15 in the end. Keep track of specs in your notes. If you buy something that isn't compatible, then you will have wasted your money.
• Electrostatic discharge (ESD): Touching sensitive electronics with your fingers can give off a static discharge and damage the equipment---sometimes destroying critical electronics. Many manufacturers will not honor a warranty claim on equipment damaged by ESD. To avoid ESD damage, keep yourself grounded at all times; either with an ESD grounding strap or by keeping in contact with a grounded outlet. When a PC is plugged in, the PC case is generally grounded through the power supply unit, no matter if the PC is on or not. A surge protector also provides a grounded connection when it is off, provided the wall outlet itself is properly grounded. Static energy is generated when you move about, in your clothes and your skin. If you get up to walk around in the middle of assembling your PC, ground yourself again before you touch any of the components.

Resources

• Computer Geeks discount outlet, in California, USA
• New Egg retail outlet, in California, USA
• TechBargains: Compare prices
• Ubuntu: Linux for human beings (download CD-image for bootable LiveCD installer)
• Fedora Linux Project, formerly Red Hat Linux (download CD-image for bootable LiveCD installer)