How to Build a Corner Workbench

A workbench for the corner of your basement or garage is a really good, practical idea, especially if you want to put every square inch of your work area to use. Instead of filling that unused corner of your room with old fishing rods or stacks of wood, why not build a small work table, which can be used in addition to a larger, rectangular work bench. Follow these instructions to see how a corner work bench is built.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Saw horse
• Circular saw
• Carpenter's square
• Framing square
• Framing nails (#10 or #12 rosin-coated common)
• Tape measure
• 1/2 inch plywood (half sheet finish grade)
• 1 1/4 inch builder's screws
• Pencil
• String
• 2-by-4 wood stock
• Electric screw gun
• 2 1/4 inch builder's screws (galvanized)
• Electric drill
• Drill bits
• 1-by-4 planks
• Scroll saw
• Sandpaper

1. Build a triangular frame for the top of the work table. First double-check the corner with a framing square to be certain that the walls come together at a right angle. Then go ahead and cut the first two pieces for the top of the triangle. These two pieces will be square cut at both ends but one piece will be 1-1/2 inches longer than the other pieces. In other words, if you want the sides to be both 24 inches long, then cut the first piece at 24 inches and the second piece at 22-1/2 inches. 24 inches should be a good all-around size for a triangular corner table. 32 inches is about the maximum length for a corner table, for it is imperative that the person who is using the corner table can easily reach all the way back into the corner.

2. Cut two pieces at the above dimensions of 24 and 22-1/2 inches, making sure all ends are square.

3. Attach the end of the shorter piece (22 1/2 inches) against the side of the longer piece (24 inches). Attach the shorter piece right at the very end of the longer piece, so that you have a right-angled piece that is 24 inches long on each outside edge. Use three long builder's screws (2 1/4 inches ) and drill some pilot holes first.

4. Cut the third piece of the right triangle. This piece will be just under 3 feet, and it will also have a 45-degree angle on each end. To get the exact placement of the the two angles you will have to hold the right-angled piece tight into the corner (an assistant can do this), then set the longer piece next to the two ends and mark the exact location of the cuts.

5. Screw the third piece with the angled ends to the right-angled piece. It should fit between the side pieces of the "L" shaped bracket that you made in step 3. Use the 2-1/4 inch builder's screws to do this. You will probably want to drill pilot holes first, so you don't split the end of the boards.

6. Using the piece that you just completed in step 5 as a template, create two more three-piece units that are exactly the same size. When all three are complete, then place them in a neat stack in the corner where your bench will go. All three units should fit tightly into the corner.

7. Decide on the height of your workbench and cut three 2-by-4's to the exact height that you desire. 32 to 36 inches is the recommended range for the height of the bench.

8. Place one 2-by-4 in the inside corner (that's where the two walls meet) of the stack of wooden pieces. Pull the top triangular piece upwards until it is flush with the top of the 2-by-4. An assistant is recommended at this point. Now insert two screws (2-1/4 inches) with an electric screw gun. If you place the three screws about 3 inches down from the top edge, then no pilot holes should be necessary. Make sure the screws find their way into the horizontal pieces. Repeat this procedure for the other two uprights, making sure the tops of both the upright and horizontal pieces are flush. Now your your top rung is connected to the three uprights.

9. Repeat this step for the other two triangular pieces that you made back in step 6. The next piece will be connected at the midway point on the vertical upright and the bottom piece can be raised just a few inches off the ground. At this point all you need to do is to place two screws at each juncture.

10. Go back and attach two more screws to each junction point. Do this from the outside pointing in. Now your stand should be solid, but it still needs shelves and a plywood top. You will have to pull the unit out from corner of the wall to do this. Remember this is a free-standing unit, so do not screw any pieces to the wall.

11. Mark the shape of the plywood top for the workbench. To do this take a half sheet of plywood (4' by 4') and make sure it is square in at least one corner. Choose one corner as the edge that will fit into the corner of the wall. From that spot measure down each side and make a mark at 24 inches. Next drive a nail (or set a screw) right into the plywood, just about an inch out from the the inside corner of the plywood. This will be temporary, so don't put the nail it too deep. Tie some string to a pencil and scribe an arc from one 24 inch mark to the other using the nail or screw as the center point.

12. Cut the plywood piece along the pencil line with a scroll saw and then sand the piece of plywood. Next attach it to the top of the frame with the shorter (1-1/4 inch ) builder's screws. Set the screws with an electric screw gun so they are flush with the top of the plywood.

13. Build shelves on top of the cross braces using the 1-by-4 planking. Each board will have a 45 degree angle scribed across the surface of the board, but the saw blade will remain set at 90 degrees. Each piece will have to be measured individually as the lengths will become gradually shorter with each new piece. Use some #6 finish nails to put each board into place.

Tips & Warnings

• Sand the plywood thoroughly after it is cut.
• If the wall is out of square, you might have to adjust the three frame pieces that you make in step 6. Do not attach the workbench directly to the wall. It is meant to be free standing.