How to Shave With an Open Razor

Whether you're looking for a shaving option that produces less waste, you like the results better or you're just interested in the process, shaving with an old-fashioned, open razor is an experience quite unlike the modernized versions of this activity. Getting the more classic form of this daily men's ablution just right is an art that can take quite a lot of practice, but knowing a few of the basic principles will help you get started.

Things You'll Need

• Straight razor
• Leather razor strop
• Stropping pastes
• Lather

Instructions

1. Make sure the razor is sharp. Run your thumb gently across the blade (not down the length!) to feel the sharpness of all areas, or test the blade by using it to slice a sheet of paper (you should have no trouble doing this if your blade is sufficiently sharp). If the blade is dull, sharpen it or have it sharpened before shaving with it.

2. Strop the razor. This process is particularly important after sharpening, since it smooths and removes barbs and burs in the razor's edge. Apply strop paste to both sides of the strop, using white paste on the linen side and yellow on the leather side. Drag the flat of both sides of the blade against first the linen, then the leather side of the strop. Do this about 30 to 40 times for each side of the blade and each side of the strop.

3. Identify the grain of your facial hair. This is easiest if you've let your stubble grow a bit and can see which way the hairs fall. But if your stubble is fresh, remember how it looked when longer. The direction that your hair naturally follows is considered "with" the grain.

4. Warm and apply shaving cream lather. If you are mixing your own lather, warm it by mixing with warm water. If you are using aerosol foam or gel, warm it by mixing it in a cup that you've heated with hot water or a quick run through the microwave.

5. Shave. Hold the blade at angle about 25 degrees from your face and shave with short, gentle strokes. Cover each section by first stroking with the grain, then against.

6. Rinse the blade under warm, running water after every few swipes with the razor.

7. Wash your face in cold water. This will help close your pores, which will reduce the stinging from aftershave.

8. Apply aftershave, if desired.