How to Fix a Leaky Aluminum Canoe

Use a basic propane torch and a specific type of welding rod to seal the gap in a leaky aluminum canoe. Even if the gap is large and requires reinforcement, this method will make the patch stronger than the boat was before it was classified as a "leaky aluminum canoe."

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Wire brush
• Propane torch
• Durafix (or TechnoWeld) aluminum welding rods
• Aluminum patch (for holes bigger than 3/8-inch)

1. Measure the hole to be patched. If a reinforced seam is damaged, cut pieces to reinforce the part that is the same or slightly larger (in each dimension like length, width, height) than the original part. Use the pieces to reinforce the boat after the hole is patched using the same methods. Do not worry about using a flux with these rods.

2. Measure the hole. Cut a patch of aluminum to go over the hole if the hole is bigger than 3/8-inch across. Put the patch on the side opposite the presentation side (known as 'the side that has to look pretty'), since the weld is stronger than the original base material. Clamp the patch in place with a clamp that is made of steel. Do not get welding material on the steel clamp or it will crack when the clamp is removed (even though the weld will not stick to most ferro-magnetic materials). Avoid using a flux with these rods.

3. Scrub any area that you wish to weld with a stainless-steel wire brush so any oxidized metal is scraped off and the weld will adhere.

4. Heat the general area that you are working on with a propane torch. Start by heating the thickest piece of aluminum and scratching the surface with the Durafix aluminum welding rods until they melt. Do not heat the rod but the surface that the rod is to stick onto until it reaches about 750-degrees F. With the surface tension being so high, allow the molten material to cling to itself enough that holes (smaller than 3/8-inch) fill up. The material should not drip if properly coaxed to fill in the gap. Wipe the melting material from the rod in a circle around the hole.

5. Keep the heat on the weld after the rod starts to flow. Remove the rod to slow down the melting of the rod. Allow the rod to enter the heat and it will start to fall apart into pieces. After the initial hole is circled with a molten layer of the rod, keep circling the hole with the rod to melt more material and use the rod to guide the molten metal to close the gap around hole.

6. Fill in the patch with the welding rod on the presentation side of the hole. Sand and patch the weld to match the rest of the boat for cosmetic purposes (see our articles on polishing aluminum and other metals).

Tips & Warnings

• If cosmetic appearance is not as important, leave the weld alone since the weld remains stronger if it is left without sanding and polishing.
• Do not use this material in places where capillary action or heat will cause it to travel into parts where the material will cause failure of the weld or disrupt the function of the part being welded. Wear proper welding equipment including gloves, goggles, apron, boots, and other safety items (of the quality that a welder would typically wear). Do not touch molten metal or metal that has been near/in heat since the heat does not always dissipate fast enough to keep from burning you. Do your work away from distractions and onlookers who would be at risk (including children and pets) of touching the work. Do not work near flammable objects, including but not limited to gasses and vapors. Do not wear anything flammable or that will melt to your skin. Make sure that any surface you heat up is non-flammable, including surfaces around where you are welding. Do not expect your torch to cool down right away.

Resources

• Welding Aluminum (Forum Comment)
• TechnoWeld Rods (Video)
• Durfix Rods (Video)
• More Complicated Alternative: MIG Welding Aluminum (Video)

Who Can Help Sponsored

• Tired of Being Tired? Fight Fatigue and Try FRS for FREE!