Things You'll Need:
- Tuning key
- Proper heads
- Drum sticks
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Step 1
Choose the proper heads. Most drum sets come with standard, single or basic, double-ply heads. These stock heads are usually only good for demonstrative playing in the showroom or banging around in the basement. Choose solid, two-ply heads are perfect for a variety of applications. Good two-ply heads project a warm tone, and will slightly muffle piercing high frequencies and loud, ringing overtones. If punch is what you are looking for, choose a clear head, free of coating. To muffle some of the punch and let more echoes come through, use coated, two-ply heads (see Resources below).
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Step 2
Seat your drum heads. Before you replace tension rods, "seat" the drum head. To seat the head, press down firmly in the center of the head with the palm of your hand. Repeat three to five times. This will allow the head to mold itself with the drum's bearing edge.
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Step 3
A standard tuning key.Replace your heads. Using your tuning key, loosen each tension rod, removing them from the lugs. Lift the hoop from the drum shell, and remove the existing head. Set new head in its place. Replace tension rods and finger-tighten them only. Repeat this step for each drum in your set.
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Step 4
A standard tuning diagram.Tune your top heads. Start with a tension rod head closest to the 12 o'clock position. Place your tuning key over the head and make a quarter-turn to the right. Locate the rod head directly opposite and make a quarter turn (see image). Locate and tune the rod immediately to the right, or the 1 o'clock position. Tune its direct opposite. Make quarter turns until your head is tight.
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Step 5
Dial in your resonator heads. For your resonator heads (bottom heads) to work properly, tune them slightly higher than the top heads. Give each tension rod an extra quarter-to half-turn to produce a higher pitch. This will allow the bottom head to capture the tone and properly project it.












