How to Build a Log Cabin Yourself
If Henry David Thoreau can do it, why not you? Not only did Mr. Thoreau build a log cabin, he also had plenty of time to contemplate ants, the changing seasons, and cold forests on dark nights. Originally designed for easy frontier shelter, the log cabin has come to be understood as a symbol of honest work, integrity and the American spirit. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
-
-
1
Select a location. The building of a log cabin should never rely on complicated earthworks. Instead, the location should be carefully selected in advance to best suit the cabin. The key is to find as flat a location as possible without being subject to pooling water. A flat spot at the top of a low hill would be an ideal location. Other considerations depend upon specific plans, such as the addition of an earthen cellar, which would require softer earth, or the proximity of drinking water.
-
2
Mark out dimensions and lay down a foundation. The foundation of a log cabin is composed of two logs that form opposite walls of the cabin. The log lengths should be the intended cabin dimension plus 2 feet. If your cabin is to be 15 by 15, then make sure all logs are 17 feet in length. The logs' diameter is less important, although having all building material uniform in width will make for a cleaner appearance. When two logs have been selected for the foundation, lay them parallel, 15 feet apart.
-
-
3
It's time for the classic lock joint. The lock joint is the notching technique known to anyone who has built with Lincoln Logs toys. It is best performed with a chainsaw, but a hatchet can do for those more inclined to use rustic building techniques. Cut into the log with a V-shape, then hollow it out into a semi-circle to accommodate the perpendicular log. The final cut should accommodate the log on top to a depth of one-fourth to one-third of the supporting log's depth. If each log has a diameter of 6 inches, then your notch cut should be 2 inches deep and wide enough to snugly fit the curvature of the log on top.
-
4
After the logs have been stacked, each with a lock joint, to the height of 7 feet, cut out windows and doors using a saw. Plan to end midway through the logs. Having the top of a log as a windowsill will eventually lead to more maintenance later as wear separates the windowsill log from the one above it.
-
5
Begin building in toward the roof. Simply cut lock joints further and further in toward the center of two opposing walls, narrowing the walls to a pointed roof.
-
6
Although the rest of the cabin's walls may be fairly airtight, chances are the roof will need an additional layer. Thatching on bundles of hay can be surprisingly durable but may require very tight construction to maintain waterproofing. Shingles are the most viable solution for those willing to bring some modern contrivance into the construction.
-
7
Close over windows and doors. Installing a normal door and window glass is perfectly possible. Other possibilities include covering the windows with wax paper or building wooden shutters.
-
8
Use narrow sticks to fill in any chinks with a combination of mud and moss. Moss is typically used as insulation. Mud, often mixed with lime, then seals in the moss insulation and fills any holes. This is the step most likely to require continued maintenance. Minimizing holes during construction can alleviate the necessity of mud chinking.
If you are interested in deviating from pioneer methods, a simple mixture of 1 part white concrete, 3 parts sand and 1/2 part lime will, when watered down to putty, provide exceptional chinking material.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Dry construction logs for one to two years before beginning construction. Cut trees in early winter to make them easier to drag and less likely to crack. Constructing a concrete foundation can make an even base for building up the cabin.
Resources
- Photo Credit http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gingery_Log_cabin.JPG