Things You'll Need:
- Print this article out and carry it with you when shopping
-
Step 1
Riding Style. What do you want to ride? Do you want to hit the park and pull out moves at the pipe? Or do you want to hit up the backcountry and go through deep powder? This is all up to you. I’m going to put this into two categories: freeride and freestyle. There are a few other types but I think they all fall close to these two categories.
If you are looking to take trails and go to the backcountry, you may want to buy a freeride board. The rider usually stands closer to the back of the board and the nose is usually wider while sticking up a little higher than a freestyle board because it is made to stay above the powder so you don’t sink in the waist deep snow. This is meant to ride one way, it isn’t designed for the snowboarder to ride down the mountain switch (opposite foot first)… although I’m not saying you absolutely can’t do that.
A freestyle board is for the snowboarder who finds themselves at the park most of the time, hitting jumps or grinding rails. Most likely, a skateboarder will choose this type because doing tricks is what they like doing more. The rider is usually in the middle of the board and both of the snowboard tips are designed to go down the hill so you can ride in any direction you want. -
Step 2
Board Length. Again, this is at the rider’s discretion and another good reason to test out some rental boards before you buy. The common rule of thumb is, stand behind the board and if the board is above your chin but you can still see over the board, it is a good fit. Some riders prefer a smaller board because they say it gives them more maneuverability.
A long board offers more stability and balanced turns that feel very smooth. A larger boarder should probably get a longer board because it offers more surface area to ride on. I recommend this for freeriders.
A short board offers quick and maneuverable turns. A thinner rider can get away with this one. I recommend this for freestyle riders. -
Step 3
Board Width. This is affected by your shoe size, you don’t want a board that makes you hang ten (your feet toes are coming off the side) because you will catch a bad edge and nobody likes to do that, ever. A wider board is more stable, however a narrow board allows quick turns
-
Step 4
The Core Materials. This is especially important for boarders that decide to take the freestyle route and want to hit jumps. Wood cores absorb a lot of the energy when you are performing a hard landing, however wood costs more. The cheaper alternative is foam or urethane. If this is your first board, just go cheaper and work your way to a better board. You won’t be the Tiger Woods of snowboarding when you first start so you won’t have to worry about doing large enough jumps that will send a lot of energy into your board.
-
Step 5
Effective Edge. Yes, some boards even offer a variety of edge length. This is simple to explain: longer effective edge offers more edge grip and better stability at high speeds, a shorter effective edge allows the boarder to instigate turns easier.
-
Step 6
Flex. The decision for flex comes to be determined by the rider’s weight. Flex is the malleability of the board, i.e. how ‘flex’ible the board is. A heavier rider will need a stiffer board while a lighter rider gets the option. If you are going to be spending a lot of time at the park and pipe, you will be happier with a flexible board.
-
Step 7
Price. You can find a board for $100 or you can be spending $1000, this is how good of a shopper you are. Read the article on saving money on a snowboard in the resources section on the bottom of the page.
-
Step 8
Graphics. This is where you stop listening to this article, and think for yourself. Which one will make you look cool and not feel embarrassed about when you are on the mountain, think of it as your car… everyone on the mountain is going to be able to see it!
