How to Hang Drapery Panels

Long draperies are an elegant and practical window treatment that will serve your needs for many years. Since they open and close, you will be able to control the light and privacy. Their fullness and ample fabric helps to soften a room's line, and will insulate against both heat and cold. Full drapes also help to mute outdoor sounds and take away the empty echo of a large room. Hanging them can be somewhat tricky, but the following guidelines should help you out.

Things You'll Need

• Ladder
• Yardstick
• Tape measure
• Level
• Pencil
• Curtain rods
• Hardware for hanging
• Wall anchors (if needed)
• Stud finder
• Power drill or screwdriver
• Hooks for tie-backs (optional)
• Drapery hooks
• Fabric strips
• Cord and tassel tie-back (optional)

Instructions

Taking Measurements and Hanging Hardware

1. Measure the length of your finished drapery panels. Typically you want them to somewhat puddle on the floor for a luxurious look; that means the rod should be installed above the window frame and outside of the sash---or width. To measure for floor-length drapes, measure from the track to the floor, allowing for drapes to meet or crash gently on the floor. You can estimate if you are installing drapes on two windows, but make sure you have the same measurements for the second set.

2. Know and become familiar with your rod system: a traverse rod is a track with combined hooks and slides that enables draperies to be drawn open or closed with cords. On the other hand, a curtain rod is generally a smooth fixture accommodating rod pocket drapes, and the drapes would be pulled open or closed by hand. And finally, a double rod supports both drapery panels on the inside with a separate rod for a valance or other treatment topper.

3. 

   Install the rod. The traverse rod will be held in place with brackets that are attached to the wall. Before attaching, make sure there is enough space between the frame and the ceiling. Mark a series of pencil dashes along the top edge of the window. If the ceiling is level, there will be an equal distance from the corner of the ceiling.
   Join the pencil marks with a yardstick. Check the manufacturer's instructions to make sure the right distance does not exceed the suggestion from bracket to bracket. The brackets need to support the weight of the drapes---yet you want them to overhang the outside of the window frame.

4. Position the first bracket and mark the drilling holes. Drill the first mark and attach with a screw; do the others. Use the stud finder to look for wood framing underneath the wall. If the screws line up on a stud, you are fine; if not, make allowances for a wall anchor or some type of fixture that will spread behind the sheetrock.

5. 

   Mark the other bracket. Before you drill, make sure of the alignment and that the two brackets are level. Oftentimes when bridging a large window, the rod will telescope out and you will need to install additional brackets in or near the middle of the window to help support the fabric weight. Install all hardware.

Getting the Fabric Right

1. With pinch-pleat drapes you can go ahead and install the drapery hooks. The hooks must all lie equidistant on the folds. If one hook is positioned higher or lower, the drape will not hang evenly. To help with the alignment, lay the drape out on a bed and measure each pleat hook insertion point. One end of the hook should be hidden within the folds of the pleat.
   With rod pocket drapes, slide the open pocket over the rod and gently move the entire drape onto the fixture, easing as you go.

2. Have someone hold the ladder for you. They can feed you the drape and you will attach the hooks, placing them into the hangers or slides. If you start in the middle, you won't miss a slide. The last one or two should be attached to the fixed holes in the end of the rod.

3. 

   Test the drapery movement by pulling on the cord. The drapes should meet in the middle with no overlapping and no pulling. To ensure a smooth look, get onto the floor and accordion-fold the drapery, working from the end to the middle. Gently tug to create a smooth fold. Tie the folds with fabric strips and leave overnight. The weight of the drapes should straighten out any wrinkles. If not, you can gently steam them the next day.

4. Add some tie-backs, if desired. Attach the hook to the wall behind the drape, anywhere near two-thirds of the way down from the top. If you make it high enough, the generous folds will hang below. This is personal preference, so try different heights. Loop the cord on the hook, making sure that the tassel end hangs on the inside of the first fold.

Tips & Warnings

• For a rod system with two rods, hang the inner rod first. Load with sheers or other panels. then install the outside piece so you are not working under fabric. Buy the best quality hardware you can afford, as it uses heavier metals and will support drapery weight without sagging. It must also have a durable coating or finish to prevent corrosion should the window take in moisture. For extra panache, consider using a decorative hanging system. They come in wood, brass or iron and usually have finials on the ends and fancy rings for hanging the drape. Newer track systems operate similar to the traverse rod system. They lay flatter to the wall. For narrow windows, extend the rod out and add a finial. Exceptionally wide windows may need several panels to take up the width. If your rod pocket drapes have headers, you will need to climb the ladder and pull the header up, while pulling the drape down to align the folds.

• Drapery should never be hung over radiator grills, near a fireplace or heat source.

Resources

• Tips to Hang Drapes Like the Pros