How to Put Tile As Backsplashes

Tile backsplashes are one of the easiest and cheapest ways to add beauty and value to a kitchen. Instead of blank and boring wall spaces in your otherwise sparkling kitchen, your tile backsplash communicates a sense of artistry and permanence. Your wall will survive decades of food spills and splatters with grace and dignity. What's more, your home will sell faster and for more money!

This article will walk you through the materials you will need and the steps to take to make a beautiful tile backsplash.

Instructions

1. 

   DESIGN YOUR TILE BACKSPLASH AND PURCHASE YOUR TILES.

   Sometimes a magazine picture can inspire your backsplash design, or a friend's house. Other times you may go to Lowes or Home Depot without any idea of what you want. Walk the aisles and figure it out as you buy. Just make sure you know the square footage of your wall space so that you can get the right number of tiles. I always like to buy more than I think I need so that I don't keep running back to the store.

   You will also need: a rubber float, a rubber hammer, a trowel with the right sized teeth, tile mastic, and a two foot level. Unless you have the most basic of backsplash jobs without any necessary cuts you will need a score and snap tile scorer or a tile saw that you can rent for $50. I prefer the tile saw for a job of any significant size or complexity.

2. CREATE A TEMPLATE OF YOUR WALL.

   This step is optional, but can save a lot of hastle. Measure each wall section and cut and tape newspaper to create an exact model. Then lay and cut tile to cover the wall template without wasting mastic and tile on bad ideas.

3. PREPARE THE WALL TO MOUNT THE TILE BACKSPLASH.

   You will want to lightly sand the wall with something close to a 80 grit sandpaper to make the mastic bond better. Be careful not to totally remove the paint.

4. 

   MARK A PLUMB LINE IN THE EXACT CENTER OF THE FOCAL POINT OF THE WALL.

   This may not be the center of the backsplash as a whole. It is often instead centered with the stove or some other eye catching feature. Use your level to draw a level vertical line to install your first tile. Apply the mastic around a small area using the tooted trowel. Using the line as your guide set the tiles keeping the gaps for grout exactly the same. (Use plastic spacers if the grout line is more than 1/8 inch wide).

5. 

   KEEP LAYING TILE, MAKING SURE THEY ARE LEVEL AND FLUSH AS YOU GO.

   Don't lay more mastic than you can quickly cover with tile. After several tiles are laid use a flat board and your rubber mallet to make sure the tiles are set and flush with each other. Cut any tiles that need to be adjusted around switch plates or other corners.

   *Make sure switch plates and outlet covers are all removed before tiling. They should sit on top of the tiles.

   When you reach exposed edges use bullnosed tiles to give a finished and professional look.

6. FORCE GROUT INTO THE GAPS.

   After your tiles have set overnight, or per factory directions (there are rapid dry versions), force the sandless grout into the gaps at an angle using the rubber float. Make sure the grout is forced deep into the gap. Lightly wipe off the tiles with a barely damp sponge as you go. After tiles dry, remove haze with a dry cheese cloth. Use a matching caulk to seal any seams between appliances or countertops and the backsplash.

7. BRAG ABOUT YOUR TILING ABILITIES TO ALL YOUR FRIENDS.

   People think tiling is beyond them. Really it is one of the simplest home improvement jobs you can do. So brag away to all your unenlightened, tile-scared friends. Watch their eyes get big, and let them ooh and aah. You earned it.

Tips & Warnings

• If mastic begins to get a thick film or 'skin' stop tiling and remastic that area to keep mastic fresh.

• Be sure to use waterproof grout.

Resources

• Make 100's a Month or More on Ehow