How to Make a Tackhead Banjo
"Just smash your piano," Mark Twain once wrote in 1885, "and invoke the glory-beaming banjo!" There's just something about the banjo that's irresistible and has inspired many to take it up and play. For those of you who aren't satisfied with just playing a banjo, make your own. Better yet, make one of forerunners of the modern banjo: the 1800s tackhead banjo. The tackhead banjo got its distinctive name because of the tacks which fasten the head to the hoop. With the tools from around your shop, you can make yourself a classic--then get playing.
Things You'll Need
- 2 inch by 14 inch ash board
- 2-1/2 inch by 6 inch by 30 inch poplar board (length can vary according to your design)
- 2 inch by 2 inch boards
- 4 angle melds
- 1 piece of plywood
- Six bolts, nuts and washers (any size)
- Table saw
- Large pot
- One 3 inch diameter stovepipe elbow
- Two 3 inch diameter stovepipe lengths
- One 3 inch diameter stovepipe plug
- One 26 gauge sheet steel with a 3 inch diameter hole in its center (larger than diameter of pot)
- Wood-working jigs
- Strap clamp
- Wood glue
- Plastic wrap
- Five violin pegs
- Band saw
- Dremel tool
- Drill and bits
- Planer
- Sand paper
- Goat skin
- #2 furniture tacks
- Hammer
- Tongs
- Gloves
- 1 piece of maple for the tail piece, nut and bridge
- Chisel
- 1/2 inch diameter dowel (optional)
- Paint (optional)
- Finish (your choice)
- Four strings (steel or gut)
Instructions
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Shape the Hoop of the Tackhead Banjo
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Start with the hoop of the tackhead banjo. Use the table saw to cut the piece of ash down so it is 1/4 inch thick. The diameter of the hoop depends on you. Earlier tackhead banjos had hoops that were 12 inches in diameter with an added 3 inches for a scarf or overlap.
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Make a form for your hoop. Fashion this by laying three 2 inch by 2 inch boards together and cutting them into a circle that's slightly smaller than the intended diameter of your tackhead banjo's hoop. If you wish, you can cut the boards at an angle along their lengths, thus creating a wedge with the center piece. Secure the three pieces together with the angle melds, then secure the completed form to a piece of plywood with six bolts, nuts and washers.
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3
Create a steam chest in which to shape the ash for the tackhead banjo. Punch four 3/8 inch holes in the stovepipe plug then put it on one end of the two lengths of stovepipe with the stovepipe elbow on the other end. Pour water into the pot. Once the water boils, place the flat piece of 26 gauge sheet steel over the top and insert the stove pipe elbow with its length of pipe into the hole.
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Place the length of ash into the boiling water and re-cover the pot. Leave the ash in the water for at least fifteen minutes before removing it from the water with a set of tongs. Carefully set the ash back in the water for another fifteen minutes so the other side of the ash can soften as well. Make sure you wear gloves to save your hands from getting burned by the steam.
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Bend the ash hoop around the form. Begin at one end, securing it with a woodworking jig, then work your way around. If you begin in the middle of the hoop, you run the risk of the ends drying and hardening before you get to them. If you need to, put the ash back in the boiling water to soften it again. Remember to overlap the hoop by three inches, forming a scarf, and secure the hoop in place around the form with a strap clamp. Let the hoop set overnight.
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Release the hoop of the tackhead banjo from the form, and glue the scarf together. Make sure you use a good quality wood glue and apply the glue to the inside of the overlapping wood so it does not mar the surface of the hoop when it dries. Wrap plastic wrap around the glued section, and let the glue dry.
Shape the Neck and Peghead of the Tackhead Banjo
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Draw the desired shape of the tackhead banjo's neck with a pencil on the piece of poplar before cutting it. If you look at the neck of a tackhead banjo, or any banjo, you'll notice that the neck is thicker above the hoop then tapers to the top. Be sure to include the peghead at the top of the neck. Pegheads are generally canted to one side or the other in a decorative manner with a scroll or something resembling a crescent moon. The shape of the peghead is up to you. Remember to allow for a slight backward tilt of the peghead.
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Use a table saw or a band saw to roughly cut the shape of the tackhead banjo's neck and peghead. You can choose to cut down the neck to form the piece that will extend through the hoop and an inch beyond, or use a dowel instead. If you decide to use a dowel, drill a hole into the thickest end of the neck, squeeze in some wood glue, and insert the dowel. If the design of the peghead is detailed or elaborate, you may find that a jig saw or a Dremel tool works better than a drill. When you have finished cutting the tackhead banjo's neck and peghead, sand them with a sander and sand paper.
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Plot the holes for the four pegs in the peghead, drill the holes, and insert the pegs. Drill a hole and insert the fifth peg in the neck of the tackhead banjo. If you prefer, you can have a music shop do this step for you to ensure that the fit of the violin pegs are perfect. This could help ensure your tackhead banjo is easy to tune as well as keeps its tune longer.
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Finish sand the neck and peghead of the tackhead banjo and finish it with tung oil, varnish, or the finish of your choice. Let the finish dry.
Form the Head of the Tackhead Banjo
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Cut the goatskin into the desired size. Remember to make it large enough so not only does it cover the hoop but extends down the side of the hoop by at least 1/2 inch. Goatskins are available at drum stores or online. You might want to take the precaution of buying more than one in case the goatskin tears while you're fitting it.
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Soak the goatskin in a tub of cool water at least 20 minutes until it is supple and easy to work with.
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Begin attaching the goatskin to the hoop of the tackhead banjo by tacking it to one side of the hoop then stretching it across to the other side and tacking it in place. Continue around the hoop, being careful to keep the goatskin smooth and unwrinkled. Take your time with this step, and try to make the placement of the tacks as even as you can manage.
Make the Tail Piece, Bridge and Nut for the Tackhead Banjo
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Start with the tail piece. Draw the shape of the tail piece on a piece of maple. The design can be up to you. Some tackhead banjos have shorter tail pieces that resemble a triangle with slightly inward-curving sides and rounded ends, while others are longer and more slender. Drill four small holes near the base of the tail piece for the strings. Drill one larger hole near the tip. If you wish, you can stain this a very dark color so it resembles ebony.
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Make a bridge from maple. The final shape should resemble a very small rake with five teeth that have arches between them. The two outer teeth should be slightly thicker than the inner ones. The finished height could be 1/2 inch or so and 1/4 inch thick. Use a drill and a chisel to cut the finished shape. Sand it smooth with sand paper.
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Form the nut. Make it slightly longer than the width of the tackhead banjo's neck. It should be about 1/2 inch high and 1/4 inch thick. You can also stain this very dark to match the tail piece.
Put the Tackhead Banjo Together
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Drill holes in the hoop to accommodate the piece that extends from the neck and at least an inch beyond the hoop. Drill two small holes, called pilot holes, on either side of one of the holes.
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Insert the neck through the holes in the hoop. Secure the hoop to the neck by inserting two brass screws into the pilot holes and tighten them. Finish the interior of the hoop by painting it either bright red or black. Or, if you desire, you can leave the interior plain.
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Place the tail piece on the hoop so it extends a little beyond the face of the hoop. Fix the tail piece in place by passing a piece of gut or sinew through the hole near the tip and tie a knot, then twist the other end around the portion of the neck that extends beyond the hoop.
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Pass the ends of the strings through the bridge and knot them, then pass the strings up to the pegs and wind the strings around them. If you need to, ask someone who is accomplished at stringing banjos to help you.
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Set the bridge in place. This is a tricky step and is accomplished with the help of sound. Start by setting the bridge up, with its teeth touching the tackhead banjo's head, beneath the strings about 3/4 of the way down the hoop. Lightly touch the string at about the twelfth fret (you may have to judge the position with a fretted banjo as your tackhead banjo has no frets) and pluck the string. Remove your finger and pluck the string again. If it sounds sharp, move the bridge so it's closer to the tail piece. If it sounds flat, move it towards the neck.
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Tips & Warnings
Have someone help you when you're stretching the goatskin across the hoop to maintain proper tension and prevent wrinkling of the head.