How to Choose a Relaxer and Relax Your Hair

This article contains instructions on how to choose and apply a relaxer to straighten hair.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

1. Choosing a relaxer
   Lye
   Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in this type of relaxer. Often, this type of relaxer is sold in an individual tub or a large tub for professional use. No mixing is required to activate the relaxer cream. They are usually effective, however some people complain of scalp burns and irritation. Many prefer this type of relaxer because it does not break down the oils/fats in the hair and scalp, and therefore helps the hair to retain more moisture.
   
   No Lye
   Guanidine hydroxide is the active ingredient in this type of relaxer. Often, this type of relaxer is sold in a box kit, which comes with a relaxer cream, activator solution, neutralizing shampoo, conditioner, instructions for use with plastic gloves, and a spatula stick for mixing the cream and activator. They are usually effective, however some complain of dryness/dullness after using a no lye relaxer. Many prefer this type because it is gentle on the scalp. No Lye relaxers are recommended for home use.
   
   Lye vs. No Lye
   This is a matter of individual choice. One type is not better than the other, although many assume that no lye relaxers are gentler, healthier or more acceptable than lye relaxers. I do not think women should be afraid to try a lye relaxer, and probably have had a lye relaxer before if they’ve ever gotten a relaxer in a salon and did not pay attention to the product used. I personally use a lye relaxer at home with excellent results.

2. Relaxer Application
   Hair should be in healthy condition before it is relaxed. If it is not healthy, a reconstructor treatment for damaged hair such as Aphogee Keratin Reconstructor should be applied to the hair weekly until the hair is in better condition. The scalp should be coated with a base coating to protect the scalp from the chemical. The chemical should be applied only to hair which has not previously been relaxed, smoothed, and the time guidelines on the package insert should be strictly followed.

3. Relaxer Touch Up Frequency
   How often you choose to relax your new growth is a highly individual decision. Most professionals recommend that a client wait at least 6 weeks between relaxer applications. In my experience, women apply touch ups anywhere from 4 weeks (to maintain the smoothness of a short hair cut) to 6 months or longer. My recommendation is to wait until there is at least 1 inch of new growth. You can measure your new growth with a ruler or a tape measure. When you have at least one inch of new growth, relaxer can be applied to the new growth only, and you will not risk damaging your hair by processing hair that has previously been processed again. This is called overlap. You do not want to process the hair twice because it could result in weakness and breakage.

Tips & Warnings

• A strand test can be used to determine the appropriate brand and strength or relaxer to use.
• A relaxer is a harsh chemical. Consider leaving the hair in its natural state in order to retain optimum hair health.
• Children's relaxers are usually not more gentle on the hair than other relaxers. If you desire a mild relaxer, use a relaxer labeled "mild."
• Do not apply a relaxer to the hair of a young child age 6 or under.

[ri-thickulous]

on 5/21/2009 I have heard of Aphogee but never tried it. I heard it works great. Nice article.