Things You'll Need:
- a draft free location safe from predators.
- a source of heat(such as a heat lamp)
- a thermometer (optional)
- sand and grit
- a chick waterer
- chick starter (food)
- a chick feeder.
- chicks
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Step 1
First priority in brooding your chicks is to provide them with a safe draft free location in which to grow that is safe from predators. Ideally this location is circular and without corners. The size of this area depends on how many chicks you have. For as few as twenty-five chicks, a tub covered with a metal mesh may be adequate at least initially but never try to raise your chicks in the house because the chicks create a dust that can be harmful to you and your family. Be sure there is no way for the chicks to escape or any other animal can get into the pen.
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Step 2
The next item to consider is the heat source. Be sure that your heat source is adequate but not too intense because you don't want to roast your little birds. I use a heat lamp with a 100 watt bulb to keep 25 or so chicks warm. If you are using a thermometer, the temperature should be close to 90 degrees to begin with gradually decreasing the temperature over the next month until the chicks no longer need the heat. The best way I have found to be sure the temperature is right for the chicks is to listen to them. If they are peeping loudly and are huddled under the lamp, they are too cold and you need to get the heat lamp closer to them. If they are trying to get away from the heat lamp, the lamp is too close and putting more distance between the lamp and the chicks thus lowering the temperature in the pen.
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Step 3
Once you have the pen ready and the heat source in place, pour some sand and grit at the bottom of the pen to line the pen. Some people use newspaper to line the floor of the pen but chicks naturally scratch so they have a tendency to scratch up newspapers. Chicks need grit at the bottom of the pen because they need grit to help them digest their food. With just a few chicks, you can buy the same grit they use for parakeets.
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Step 4
The next item needed to prepare for the arrival of your chicks is a waterer. The waterer I use for very young chicks is a round plastic dish that fits to an inverted mason jar that is filled with water. You can buy one of these from the local animal feed store. The water used should be warm, about 90 degrees to prevent chicks from getting chilled from drinking the water.
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Step 5
The next thing needed for the chicks is the feeder. I buy my feed from the local animal feed store. When you ask for the chicken feed they will ask you what kind. Tell them you want either chick starter or chick crumbles. They will then ask you if you want medicated or unmedicated. For chicks, the choice is yours. For me, when I buy chicks from a hatchery, I use one bag of medicated then switch to unmedicated. when I incubate my own chicks, I ask for unmedicated exclusively. I don't want to be exposed to any more chemicals than I have to be. When I get the chick food home, I put the feed in a small chick feeder. I have two different sized feeders that I use as the chicks grow. I have used screw top jar lids to start and then switched to paper egg cartons with the tops cut so that the chicks couldn't scratch in the food. Like I said before, the chicks like to scratch. If using egg cartons for feeder, don't use Styrofoam because the chicks will peck the Styrofoam and that isn't good for the chicks.
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Step 6
When the chicks arrive, gently place them into the pen and watch them. Introduce them to the waterer by dipping their beaks into the water. Make sure only to wet the beaks and not the feathers. Chicks are easily chilled. The chicks will figure out how to eat on their own.
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Step 7
Now that the chicks are in their new home and you are sure they are drinking and eating and staying warm, keep an eye on them and keep their food and water clean. They are dependent on you to make sure they have a long and birdie life.
Comments
cygnetbrown said
on 4/26/2009 There are far too many antibiotics used in our culture. Instead of using antibiotics I try to raise my chickens in the most healthy environment possible. I try to avoid antibiotics in my own life too and I'm never sick. There are far too many strains of diseases that have mutated because of the over use of antibiotics. I don't lose chickens to disease even when I don't use antibiotics and I believe my family is healthier because of it. (Note: in the few cases that I have used antibiotics and there are few, the antibiotic was very effective on the illness. We're talking maybe six times in fifty year!)
papasnumber1 said
on 4/25/2009 Baby chick should definately have antibiotics at least until pullet size. Terramyacin is best, and a long time favorite. It mixes in the water and helps build immunity. I just got 12 baby bantams and they're doing great. They rush up to see me when I feed them. So cute and loveable, and friendly. I've had chickens for years and bantams are my favorite.
Pamelateda said
on 4/15/2009 Now I want chicks! :) Too bad they're against the zoning here.
cygnetbrown said
on 4/14/2009 I've personally never added antibiotics to my chicks water and didn't lose a chick even when I bought them from a hatchery but I was also careful about buying my chickens from a hatchery nearby and avoided having them stressed from an extended trip through the postal system. I'm personally leary of using too many antibiotics anyway but if you use the antibiotics in the water for just the first month or so and allow your chicks to have plenty of fresh for then on, they should be okay.
writeitout said
on 4/14/2009 We just bought chicks, to save money on future eggs. We were told that it's recommended to add antibiotics to their water. Do you know anything about that? Thanks! 5*