How to Wax Fiberglass Cross Country Skis
Before you wax your fiberglass cross-country skis, check their bottoms. If there is a fish-scaled pattern all along the bottom, they probably don't need to be waxed. If they are completely smooth--all skate skis and some classic cross-country skis are--you need to wax them, and if they have fish scales only in the middle portion near the bindings, you won't wax the fish-scaled part, but you will wax the smooth parts on either side.
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Instructions
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Heat the clothes iron on a low setting.
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Place your skis on a table or other flat surface, with the bottoms of the skis facing up.
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Scrape any old wax away with the plastic scraper. Using plastic decreases the chance of nicking or otherwise damaging the base and edge of the skis.
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Select your wax according to the temperature and snow conditions. The criteria for each wax will be marked clearly on the package and is the only way to discern which one you should use.
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Hold a block of glide wax against the iron and let the wax drip onto the bottom surface of your skis. If you're using skate skis, you'll apply this glide wax all the way from tip to tip of your skis. If you're using classic skis without fish-scale patterning on the bottom of the skis, you'll drip the glide wax on the front and back of the skis, but not on the middle underneath the bindings.
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Smooth the wax across the ski surface with the iron. If you're using classic skis with no fish scaling on the bottom at all, you'll then hold a block of different wax--called retention wax--against the iron and drip this onto the middle portion of the ski, opposite the bindings. Smooth this wax across the ski surface with the iron, too. If your classic skis have fish scales in the middle portion of the ski, you don't need to add retention wax, but may still glide-wax the ends of the skis.
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Allow the wax to cool, then buff it with a clean, dry sponge or with a piece of cork. This will smooth off any bumps and should leave you with an even, thin coating of wax on the bottom of your skis.
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