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How to Select Pearl Earrings or Pendants

How to Select Pearl Earrings or Pendantsthumbnail
Golden South Sea Pearl Pendant

Pearls are often thought to symbolize innocence, purity of heart and wisdom. Pearls are made by oysters; where the oyster lives and the type of water there determines the size, shape and color of the pearl that it makes. Pearls come in a variety of colors and shapes that can suit any personality and match many different fashion styles. Pearl earrings and pendants add a natural beauty to bring elegance and grace to any outfit. Pearl pendants are often made with large round or teardrop-shaped pearls.

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    Difficulty:
    Moderate

    Instructions

      • 1

        Pick what type pearl you wish to have. There are four different types of pearls: freshwater pearls, Tahitian pearls, Akoya pearls and South Sea pearls. Freshwater pearls have a soft luster that seems to glow from within. They come in peach, pink and lavender colors. Tahitian pearls are medium to large pearls with a color range from black to silver with peacock, green, blue, pistachio, or cherry opalescent overtones. Baroque Tahitian pearls have unique and unusual organic shapes and a rainbow iridescence that catches the light. Akoya pearls come from the Japanese pearl oyster and are often considered to be the classic representation of white pearls. South Sea pearls are the largest pearls available on the market, roughly the size of a marble with a satin luster.

      • 2

        Ask for a written description of the seller's pearl grading terms and the grade of the pearl that you are observing. Pearls are graded according to their luster, shape, color, surface quality, size and nacre thickness. Read the description of the seller's terms to know what their grades imply -- there is no true universal pearl grading system and many sellers make up their own grades for the pearls they sell. This will allow you to determine whether their prices are reasonable when you go to compare them with other seller's prices for the same type of pearl.

      • 3

        Examine the pearl's luster. Luster is the brilliance or shine of the pearl and how it reflects the light on its surface, and its inner glow -- how it refracts the light from the inside. Low luster pearls are chalky, dull or yellow in appearance, while high luster pearls shine the brightest and will have a mirror-like reflection. Low luster pearls should be lower in price than high luster pearls.

      • 4

        Examine the pearl's surface quality. Surface quality is determined by the physical condition of the pearl. A "clean" or spotless pearl has no bumps, wrinkles, pits or scratches on it. The highest grade pearl -- sometimes marked by grade AAA by a seller-- should be 95 percent clean or blemish-free. Pearls marked medium grade or grade AA by a seller should be 75 percent clean. Low grade pearls or grade A pearls will be less than 75 percent clean and will have many bumps, wrinkles or scratches on the surface. High grade pearls with a spotless or "clean" surface have the highest selling price.

      • 5

        Examine the pearl's shape. Perfectly round pearls are rare and will have high prices. Pearl sellers mark round pearls with a high grade or grade AAA. Mostly round pearls should be marked with a medium grade or grade AA. Near round pearls should be marked with a low grade or grade A. Out-of-round pearls should be marked with the lowest grade or grade A and cost less than round and near-round pearls. There are several types of out-of-round pearls: irregular oval-shaped freshwater pearls, teardrop pearls, Tahitian Baroque pearls and circle pearls. The irregular shapes of freshwater pearls give them a more natural and organic look. Baroque pearls are oval-shaped with flat raised rings on the sides. Circle pearls have a ridge that rings around the central line or equator of the pearl.

      • 6

        Ask to hold the pearl so that you can closely look at it and examine the nacre, or the outer coating of the pearl. Look at the surface near where the hole has been drilled through the pearl. Signs of thin nacre are cracks or flakes in the surface that formed during the drilling process. A nice-looking pearl that is reasonably priced or really cheap may have a low price because it has a thin nacre. A pearl with thin nacre is prone to cracking and flaking, which affects the price and lifetime of the pearl. Thicker nacre pearls will not show signs of cracking or flaking near the drill hole.They are more desirable -- and more expensive -- because they last longer and stand up to daily wear. High grade pearls or grade AAA pearls should have a nacre thickness of over 0.019 of an inch. Medium grade pearls or grade AA pearls should have a nacre thickness of 0.011 to 0.019 of an inch. Low grade pearls or grade A pearls should have a nacre thickness of 0.008 to 0.019 of an inch.

    Tips & Warnings

    • If you are purchasing pearl earrings for someone and you do not know if they have pierced ears or if they are allergic to certain types of metals, purchase earrings with clasps or fasteners that are made with hypoallergenic metals such as gold, silver or platinum to avoid ear irritation.

    • Some people's ears are small and do not accommodate large pearl earrings well, which can lead to piercing holes stretching or the earrings just not looking quite right when they are worn.

    • When purchasing earrings with gems or other pearls, look for ones that are arranged around the largest or main pearl, as this will make it the focal point of the earring.

    • A pendant made with three or four small pearls can be assembled into simple shapes for an elegant-looking pendant. To have a pearl pendant that is truly one of a kind, look for a large pearl with an irregular shape that can show off its natural beauty.

    • Be wary of sellers that claim to have pearls that are grade AAAA or grade AAA+; they are trying to make it seem that they are selling pearls that are beyond the highest standard quality. They are most likely trying to sell grade AAA pearls at a higher price than they are worth.

    • Always ask a seller for a written definition of their grading scale. If they won't give you one, they are not a reputable jeweler and you should shop for your pearls somewhere else.

    • Do not select earrings that are long or dangle if you are going to be around small children or infants; infants can grab onto them and may tear them off.

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