How to Make a Classy Art Picture Frame

The fastest way to add cachet and sophistication to an oil painting, a print or your own art is to package it using a distinctive frame. A frame adds substance to your art, becomes a focal point when hung correctly, and attaches value to the piece. This article will explain how to put a frame together and how best to display it. These instructions assume you are purchasing ready-made and cut-to-size frame pieces.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• 2 picture frame pieces representing the height
• 2 picture frame pieces representing the width
• Glass---1/16-inch, or acrylic cut to measure
• Acid-free mat, professionally cut (oil paintings typically do not use mats)
• Frame biscuits
• Backboard in foam core, cardboard or panel board
• 3/4 Panel pins or brads
• Screw eyehooks or D-rings
• Picture wire
• Wire cutter
• Picture hooks
• Picture frame clamp
• Level (for hanging)
• Hammer
• Masking tape
• Optional: wood molding from lumberyard, cut to size
• Miter box (optional for frame lumber)
• Drill with smallest bit or hammer and nail for starting holes
• Soft surface like a foam square or padded surface
• Framing nails
• Kraft paper roll or paper bags
• Waterproof wood glue epoxy
• Aluminum brush to apply glue
• Damp rag

Framing Art: from Pieces to Wall

1. 

   Measure your art. If it is a standard size, for example an 8 x 10-inch stretched canvas, you can buy stock frame pieces and the backing board online, or at a hobby store such as Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Otherwise, you may need molding from a home improvement store---ask them to cut it according to your measurements.
   Assemble all your materials. Also, have a soft surface available to work on, such as a piece of latex foam or a padded surface---similar to a padded ironing board.
   A print or a photograph will look much better matted. A mat also keeps the art away from the glass or acrylic and prevents sticking. Mats need to be cut by a professional with a mat-cutter tool; also, mats can actually be bevel cut, adding another dimension to your art. Check with local framers or hobby stores with framing departments.

2. 

   Place the frame pieces on your work surface and assemble them into the correct configuration. Make sure that the mitered corners line up nicely, with no unsightly gaps.
   Apply wood adhesive to the ends of each adjoining piece with a brush and bond the corners together. Some professionally prepared frames have slots cut into the back of the frame piece and provide wood biscuits to place in the slots. If so, slide the biscuit into each corner---this helps to solidify the frame strength. You may need to use your picture frame clamp to hold them until dry. Make sure that the clamp is padded and not digging into the wood.
   Using a damp rag, wipe off any of the wood glue that has oozed out. Allow the frame to dry overnight.

3. 

   Remove the clamp.
   If using glass, take your frame to a glazier, who will custom cut your glass. If you are cutting your own backboard, do that at the same time.
   To begin assembly, place the frame onto the soft surface, upside-down. Clean and insert the glass. Insert the mat. Test to see where the art will fall in the frame; affix the art to the mounting with masking tape (linen tape preferred). Insert the backboard.

4. 

   Use panel pins to hold everything in place. Support the frame in a padded wood block or vise so it won't move around. Gently, hammer several panel pins into the inside edge of the frame, spaced evenly. Only sink the pins halfway; the protruding ends of the pins will hold the work in the frame.

5. 

   Apply adhesive to the back of the frame all along the edge. Lay a piece of Kraft paper or a paper bag over the glue, covering the whole back. Wipe excess glue away and trim the paper to the frame edge with a craft knife. The artwork is now in the frame and the back is sealed to prevent dust, etc. from reaching the surface.

6. 

   Measure one-third down from the top of the frame on the vertical pieces. Make a mark. Here is where you will screw in the picture eyehooks or D-rings. If the wood is hard, you may need to make pilot holes to start. Install the eyehooks or D-rings. Then cut a length of picture wire that equals the width of the frame plus 4 inches. Thread the picture wire through each hook or D-ring and across the back of the frame, protruding 2 inches on each side. Wind the excess over itself like a twist-tie at each end, and trim the wire if necessary.

7. 

   Art should be relative in size to the wall or the furniture in front of it. Hang important art at eye level. If you are unsure of placement, the best thing to do is trace around the art on a Kraft paper or paper bag, then cut it out and move the template around until you are satisfied.
   Professional artist Robert Terrell suggests hanging art at 57 inches center---that means 57 inches up from the floor to the center of the art.

Tips & Warnings

• Experiment with the widths of mat. For extra large pieces you may even prefer a double mat. • Think about matching the color of the mat to the artwork. A neutral, of course, goes with most any wall color. Light mats expand the work, dark mats recede and give the art a tunnel effect. • Another method of frame assembly is using a drill with a panel pin as the bit. Affix one panel pin, halfway into the wood in each corner. Sink with a hammer. • Frame miter joints can be reinforced using a drill; cut a 1-inch diameter, 1/4-inch deep hole in each corner---fill with a wooden plug with glue on it. This method does not need picture clamping, just drying time. • A backboard can be cut by placing the ready-cut glass on top of a piece of backboard that is sitting on a cutting mat; run a craft knife along the edge of the glass. Caution: hold the glass steady with gloved hands as it may be sharp.

• • Pad under the vise if using a picture clamp. • Less expensive frames may have to be joined with framing nails and a hammer. • When "dry mounting" the art to the backboard, a professional framer uses heat. A regular adhesive such as masking tape may damage the art when removed. If the art is not precious, a piece of tape or, better, linen tape is fine. • Investigate the differences between regular glass, which is heavy; UV-coated glass, which prevents fading; and non-glare glass. The medium should fit the art and where it will be hung.

Resources

• Seller of custom and ready-made art frames
• B.A. Framer outlets where you can build your own frames on site
• Building a frame from scratch with lumber or molding
• Tutorial and pictures by Colette Theriault
• Important tips for hanging framed art