How to Frame a Basement Door

If you have a basement that was properly sealed when it was built, and the place is now free of any moisture problem, you might consider remodeling your basement area so that it can be used as a living space. Many basements work well as one big family space. But if your remodeling plans call for the creation of a private room, you'll have to build a 2-by-4 partition with an opening for a door. The following is a detailed explanation of how to create a door opening in an already constructed partition wall.

Things You'll Need

• 2-by-4s
• Scraps of 1/4-inch plywood
• Construction adhesive
• Caulk gun
• Tape measure
• Carpenter's square
• Framing nails (No. 16 rosin coated)
• Box nails (No. 8)
• Circular saw
• Reciprocating saw
• Saw horses
• Old wood chisel

Instructions

1. Check the existing 2-by-4 partition to see if it's solid and plumb.

2. Decide on a door and calculate the opening size. If you have a 32-inch door that is not pre-hung and you're using 1-by-6 stock as a jamb, your opening will be 34 inches wide. This allows room for the hinge, the jamb and a few wooden shims behind the jamb.

3. (If the bottom plate is already cut for a door opening, skip this step.) Mark the 34-inch opening on the bottom plate with two perpendicular pencil marks. Use a framing square to make sure the lines are square. Double-check your math.

4. If there are any 2-by-4 vertical framing members in the door opening, remove them. The best way is to cut the stud in half with a reciprocating saw. (Don't use a circular saw for this task!) Then, slowly twist and pull on each piece until it comes free. Pound any exposed nails into a flat position or remove them with a pair of vise grips.

5. Set the depth of your circular saw to 1 3/8 inch and double-check the measurement with a tape measure.

6. Place a carpenter's square on the 2-by-4 bottom plate and put the saw next to the square. Make the cut from the inside of the pencil mark, so that the blade just touches the pencil mark. Make the two cuts, but the piece of plate can't be removed until you complete the two saw cuts with an old wood chisel.

7. Measure and cut the two upright studs and nail them to the bottom plate first. (No. 12 or No. 16 rosin-coated nails should work fine.) Make sure they line up with the edge of the door opening. Level the board before nailing the top end to the top plate. Note: Be careful at the bottom end when you nail. Wood splits easily. You can attach an extra block to the top side of the bottom plate to help prevent this. Just set the block back 11/2 inches exactly from the edge, and the bottom piece will be a lot easier to nail.

8. Build a header. This consists of two 2-by-4s turned sideways and nailed together. For an extra good fit, insert a piece of 3/8-inch plywood in between and apply adhesive compound. This piece should be the exact same length as the bottom opening, but double-check the measurement at the height where the header will go. Now cut the pieces and build the header.

9. Nail the header with No. 16 common nails at the height that it is a little bit greater than the length of the door. Allow 1inch for the jamb at the top and then add the appropriate thickness for the floor covering.

10. Cut and fit the cripples above the header. These are 2-by-4 pieces that stretch from the header to the top plate. Keep the same spaces between the studs that exist in the rest of the wall and keep these 2-by-4s straight and level.

11. Add another 2-by-4 to one side of the door to create a post. This is the side where the door will hang from. Nail the second 2-by-4 to the bottom and top plates with long nails, but use shorter box nails when just nailing the double post together.

12. Cut and nail several 2-by-4 blocks for the other side of the door. These will run between the door frame and the first wall stud. Two or three blocks should be enough.

Tips & Warnings

• Openings for pre-hung doors are done in the same manner, only the opening may be slightly smaller or larger. Check with the manufacturer beforehand.

• Pull out any exposed nails. If the head is buried in the wood, use a pair of vise grips.