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How to Use a Nailer to Install Crown Molding

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By Andrea Campbell
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Use a Nailer to Install Crown Molding
Use a Nailer to Install Crown Molding

The installation of crown molding will turn a plain, boring box room without any architectural details into something special. Typically crown molding is a traditional look, but it can add value and sophistication to any home and there are a variety of styles to choose from.

This article presupposes that you know the measuring, positioning and cutting techniques required for molding --- scarf joint, cut with 45-degree miter; outside corner, a 45-degree cut; inside corner with a square and then an adjoined coping 45-degree cut; and the return or end cut. Here then are helpful instructions for nailing crown molding.

From Quick Guide: Crown Molding Basics
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Molding supply lengths, plus 15 to 20 percent for cutting errors; moldings come in pre-cut lengths of 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16 feet Power miter saw Coping saw Stud finder Chalk line Drill Rasp Pneumatic nail gun and compressor (check into rentals) Wood glue or hot-melt glue gun 4d finish nails 6d finish nails (8d optional) Pencil Wood putty Paint or stain Sandpaper Sawhorses and heavy plank to form a scaffold (optional: rental) Work and cutting area table Utility knife (optional) Ladder

    Nailing Crown Molding: A Fix on Installation

  1. Step 1

    Locate the studs in the wall and lay blue painter's tape at each junction. Generally, studs are placed at 16 or 24 inches apart. Obviously you are using a nail deep enough to hit a stud. A pneumatic nailer has the capability to nail deep quickly.
    Prepare the surface by dusting (or brushing if necessary) any accretions like paint or lumps of joint compound, any irregularities that may keep the boards from lying flat to the surface.

  2. Step 2

    Apply finish to the molding. One way is to install the molding plain, then tape off and paint. The other idea is to paint the molding, let it dry completely and then install. If you feel the finish will be marred, or harder to keep undamaged, go with the first method.

  3. Step 3

    Strips of molding must be fastened with care because they can pull away from the wall if nailed incorrectly. Misplaced hammer blows also can easily dent soft pine, which is generally used for molding.

    After making sure the joints are properly fitted, start nailing one strip of molding at the corner and continue across the room to the opposite end. If the wall happens to be longer than your molding, or if the piece held is unwieldy, cut and splice.
    Attach ceiling molding by driving nails straight through the middle of the molding at corners and into the studs. Eightpenny finishing nails --- or longer --- may need to be used if molding is particularly heavy.

  4. Step 4

    Outside corners (return) might need a smaller brad so as not to split the wood. For a tiny triangular-shaped return, place a 4d finish nail into the drill and chuck it closed. Bore two pilot holes into the wood. A thin coat of glue is applied to the wood, which is then pressed into place and held for a minute or more. Carefully nail the joint through the holes. Set the nail, and seal nail holes with putty. Sand lightly to remove any putty buildup if needed.

  5. Step 5

    Before painting the molding, you can use small amounts of caulk to cover seams. Also countersink the nails about 1/8 inch into the wood and fill the holes with wood putty. Let dry and sand lightly. Paint or stain.

Tips & Warnings
  • Usually for long lengths of molding, a helper is needed; if you must work single-handedly, cut miter at 5-foot intervals. Fasten each strip by nailing the middle, then nailing back toward one end of the strip and finally nailing forward to the other end.

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