How to Sew a Zipper in a Bridal Gown

Shopping for a wedding gown can be a costly venture. Banking on the enthusiasm of brides-to-be, the wedding industry is filled with cookie-cutter gowns at inflated prices, and many come away from gown shopping feeling overwhelmed. As an alternative, some brides choose to make their own unique wedding gowns. Gown sewing is not so different from everyday sewing; rather, the differences are in the details. Most hobby seamstresses can learn to make wedding gowns by paying close attention to the construction and by taking tips from couture sewing techniques. To learn how to sew the zipper part of a bridal gown, read the following instructions.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Constructed gown bodice and skirt Zipper Hand stitching supplies Iron and ironing board Beeswax Hook and eye closure

1. Complete the general construction of the bodice and skirt of the gown, including the lining and any inner construction, and attach the two at the waist. Make sure the opening edges for the zipper line up and trim the completed seam allowances at the sides of the zipper opening to reduce bulk. If your wedding gown is crafted in one piece, make sure you are satisfied with the construction before moving on to the zipper. It does not matter whether your dress has a side zipper or a back zipper, as the instructions are the same.

2. Make sure the outer fabric and lining fabric lay flat against one another, with no bulges or wrinkles. Pin them together to hold them in place while you work. Mark the seamlines by thread tracing or stitching very loosely where the fabric will be folded under. You may want to baste both layers of fabric in place along this line so they do not move while you work.

3. Determine the type of zipper you are using. Your pattern may call for an invisible zipper, flap zipper or simply a standard zipper. For an invisible zipper, you will need to reinforce the seam allowances with interfacing before moving on. To do so, lay strips of interfacing along the wrong sides of the seam allowances and fold the seam allowances under. Pin them in place.

4. Fold the seam allowances under, if you have not done so already. Baste the folded edges in place by hand and press them flat with the iron. Press the zipper tape flat to remove any crinkles or folds.

5. Place the gown opening right side up in your workspace. Open the zipper and put it under the opening sides of the gown, with the zipper tab facing upward. Loosely baste the zipper in place by hand.

6. Coat your thread with beeswax and thread the needle in a double layer. Hand stitch the zipper to the fabric using a pick stitch, an invisible stitch created by "picking" one thread of fabric with the needle on the right side from the wrong side. Work from top to bottom, smoothing out wrinkles and puckers as you go, and tie off the threads at the bottom.

7. Remove all basting stitches. Sew a hook and eye closure to the gap at the top of the zipper.

Tips & Warnings

• For more delicate wedding gown fabric, always interface the zipper opening. If you are having trouble getting the zipper to line up properly, take the basting stitches out and line the zipper up against the opening without the seam allowances folded under. Baste the zipper there and cut it to the desired length, then take it all apart and move on.

Resources

• Power Sewing: Invisible Zippers
• Couture Sewing: Zippers
• Wedding Gown Sewing Tips
• How to Sew Zippers
• Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing