How to Wire Dual Light Switches

Dual light switches can control a light from either end of a hallway or stairwell. The premise is to have either switch turn a ceiling light on or off regardless of the light switch position. In some cases, one of the switches will turn the light on by toggling it to the down position. If the light is turned off at the other switch, then the switch in the down position will turn the light on again by flipping it upward. This is made possible by the electrical wiring configuration. You wire dual light switches for a single light in a 3-way circuit.

Things You'll Need

• Wire strippers or wire cutters Slotted screwdriver

Instructions

1. Turn power to the circuit off at the breaker switch. If there is any question of which breaker controls the circuit, then turn off the main power switch.

2. Strip the wires to prepare connections at both switches and the light box. Use wire strippers or wire cutters to slice 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires at all three connection locations.

3. 

   Connect power to switch number 1. Three wires run from the power source, typically a black "hot" wire, a white "neutral" wire and a green "ground" wire. Connect the hot wire to the from the power source to the common terminal on the first light switch. The common is on the side of the switch with two terminals, and it has a dark-colored connector screw. Curl the wire around the screw in a clockwise direction, and tighten the screw with a slotted screwdriver.

4. Splice the neutral wires and ground wires together. Twist the stripped end of neutral wire from the power source around the stripped neutral running to the light box. Twist a wire nut over the exposed connection. Connect the ground wire from the power source to the ground running to the light box in the same manner.

5. Connect the traveler wires. Connect the black wire, that runs to the switch box, to the terminal over the common. Connect the red wire, running to the light box, to the only terminal on the other side. Seat and cover switch number 1.

6. Wire the light box. Splice the green ground wires, running from both switches, together in the light box. Splice the red traveler wires from both switches together. Splice the black hot wire from switch number 1 to the white neutral wire from switch number 2. Cover all spliced connections with wire nuts.

7. Wire the light socket. Connect the black hot wire from switch number 2 to the hot terminal on the light socket. Light sockets use terminal screw connectors with the hot having a bronze or dark-colored screw. Connect the white neutral wire from switch number 1 to the neutral socket terminal. Secure the socket and cover with a fixture.

8. Wire switch number 2. Connect the black hot wire, from the light box, to the common terminal. Connect the white neutral wire to the terminal above the common. Connect the red traveler wire to the lone terminal on the other side of the switch.

9. Ground the circuit. Connect the green ground wire to the ground terminal in the box or on the switch. Metal switch boxes have ground terminals. If the box is plastic, then use the ground terminal screw on the switch. Secure and cover the switch.

10. Return power to the circuit and test the light from both switches. Either switch should turn the light on and off from any toggle position.

Tips & Warnings

• Check local regulations for wire gauge and permit requirements. Typically, 12-gauge wire is used with a 20 A circuit and 14-gauge for a 15 A circuit, unless otherwise specified by local building codes. Some areas also issue a building permit to residents doing their own electrical work.

• Improper wiring can ignite a fire. Never take chances with electrical wiring. Hire a licensed electrician if you have any questions about electricity and its applications.

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish