Things You'll Need:
- 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 8' of clear Pine
- Tape measure
- Miter Saw
- Dove Tail Saw
- Marking Guage
- 1/4" chisle
- 3/16" x 21 1/2" x 21 1/2" MDF
- Aloy Oxide Sand paper Grits 80-220
- Black Acrylic Paint (small container)
- Clear Gloss Finish
- Small can of Minwax Polyshades Bombay Mahogany Satin
- A Workmate or similar clamping device
- Foam brush 1 1/2"
- Can of water
- Can of Mineral Spirits
- Roll of paper towels
- Sharp knife
- Wood Glue
- Marking square
- Hangers for wall mounting
- Sharp pencil
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Step 1
With your tape measure and Miter Saw mark and cut four lengths of Pine to 24". Check that all four pieces are the same size. From the ends of each piece place a mark at 1 1/2". Using the square draw a straight line all the way around each end, marking all four sides on each end. WIth the 3/4" end facing you make two marks 1/4" apart, do this at the ends of each piece of pine stopping at your first 1 1/2" mark. Using your square connect these lines, you should now have a U shape on the 3/4" ends. Place all four pieces on your work table with the 3/4" side facing up. On this side and this side only you'll make the grooves for the MDF. Go ahead and set your marking guage pins 1/4" apart and 1/4" space between the inside pin and the fence on the guage. Test it on some scrap to make sure the guage is set properly. With the guage set, run it along the entire length of each piece. Follow your marks around the U shape we made earlier.
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Step 2
Cutting the grooves. Place two of your pieces of pine off to the side for now. With the groove side up, make a mark 1 1/4" from each end. Using your square mark the line in the middle 1/4" section, this will be your stopping point for this set of grooves. With the groove side up clamp the piece in your workmate, you're going to be putting a fair amount of pressure on this so check that the piece doesn't move. With your 1/4" chisle on your stopping point at a nintey-degree angle push straight down. Working from the stop points back cut your groove to 1/4" deep. Repeat this process on your second piece. To eliminate confusion we'll go ahead and cut our tenons on these two pieces. With the groove side up cut on the outside of the U shape but still on the line, stop when the Dove Tail Saw is at nintey-degrees and meeting the 1 1/2" mark. Remove the piece from the clamp, with the 1 1/2" side up cut along your 1 1/2" mark. Remove this piece and repeat until your tenons are all cut. Mark them as top and bottom when you're finished cutting them, then set them to the side. Now for the next two pieces, since we don't have a stop cut on these grooves you can set them running the entire length at 1/4 deep. Cutting the mortise, or female ends. With groove side up and grooves cut, use the Dove Tail Saw to cut on the inside of the U shape lines (closest to the middle). Stop the cut with the saw at a nintey-degree angle at the 1 1/2" mark. With the chisle at a nintey-degree angle cut out the waste (area between saw cuts).
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Step 3
Now its time for the dry assembly, this will expose any problems before we finish and glue the piece. Arrange your pieces of pine, tenons on top and bottom pieces, mortise on sides. All grooves towards the middle of the piece. Slide the MDF into the grooves of the top and bottom first, then push the sides on. With every corner flush and tightly joined, flip the piece over (this is the back that'll be against the wall). Starting with the top right corner I mark each end of each piece with a letter of the Alphabet, so we can match the corners later when we glue up. If the joints are too tight use the chisle to remove a little waste at a time until it fits snugly. When you're sastified that you can get it back together in the same manner then disassemble the piece.
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Step 4
Finishing and glue-up. Sand all surfaces (except the backs) of the top and bottom pieces, start with 80 grit, then 120 grit, then 150-180 grit, and finally 220-240 grit. Clean up dust and go away for about a day to let any remaining dust settle. When you come back be careful not to stirr up any dust, this will get imbedded into the finish. Now with the Minwax follow the directions on the can and apply the stain allowing it to dry fully before sanding your side pieces. Since we're painting the sides you don't have to go as far with the sanding, again start with 80 grit then go to 120 grit. When you come back, apply the black acrylic paint. The paint drys quite quickly, after you have painted the sides you can seal it with the gloss. The gloss should be applied evenly with no runns or build up, allow it time to dry. When this is dry you can now do your final assembly. Spread a thin layer of glue on the tenons, assemble being sure to match your corners. You need to work quickly here, I use a damp cloth to wipe up excess glue. Once assembled clamp the piece pulling the sides into the top and bottom pieces. Let the glue dry for 12-24 hours.
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Step 5
Following the instructions with the hanging hardware install at this time. Now for the corks! With a scrap wood base and a sharp knife its time to cut the corks. Stand the corks up on their ends, the same way they came out of the bottle. Place the knife blade on about the middle, you want two 1/2 circles. Push straight down with the knife rocking it if you need to. When you're done arrange the corks on the board and figure where you want every thing, if you wind up with dead space you can measure and cut along the length of the corks to fill it. Apply glue to the inside of the cork you just cut and place it on the MDF board. I did my corks in pairs changing direction from vertical to hroizontal lines... just for fun.
