Things You'll Need:
- patience
- simple personal security - money belt, keep an eye out at bus stations and major travel hubs
- to know that 99.999% of Lao people are just impossible not to get along with!
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Step 1
*Get a few basics down: Learn "hello" ("Sabaidee!"), and "thank you" ("Kop chai"). This will work wonders for how the locals react. Many people do not understand much English, and trying to learn even the most basic words in their language is a very honorable thing to do.
If you happen to know any Thai, Lao and Thai are very similar. Learning to count to ten, and the word for 'thousand' ("paan") will help very much as well, since prices are all in thousands due to the inflated currency, the Lao 'Kip'. Example, a small Beerlao is about 4000 Kip ("Si paan kip") -
Step 2
*Watch out at borders!: The famous Mekong River boat tour from Huay Xai (near Chiang Kong, Thailand) to Luang Prabang is a typical tourist trap. Not all boat operators are dishonest, but there are a few typical problems:
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Step 3
1) Overfilling the boats. Not only is this uncomfortable, but it could be dangerous. We found that instead of booking the day before, it was best to show up in the morning (NONE of the boats left at the announced time) and pick a boat then. The boat still filled up more along the way.
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Step 4
2) Scaring the tourists. Some unscrupulous bus and taxi drivers roam the boat area, telling gullible-looking tourists that the river is unsafe, and that the overnight stop between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang is full of criminals (it was not, at all, as of Jan '09). They would simply like to sell you a bus ticket to Luang Prabang - with their company, of course. Don't be fooled! The Mekong trip is a great experience, and shouldn't be missed. The bus ride is quicker, but pretty boring. Patience!
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Step 5
3) At the overnight in Pak Beng: Ther ewill be plenty of young men offering rooms as you arrive. Don't agree to a room, or a price, until you have a look. If you do say the word "yes", you will have a hard time backpedaling! Also, beware of the young guys who help carry your bags. As with anything in S.E. Asia, it won't be free, and if you don't agree on a price first, they'll raise the price on you. Keep in mind, this happens as these are travel hubs - these people deal with tourists day in and day out, and not all are as perfectly polite and patient as you! So please excuse some of the behavior you run into here, and don't build your picture of Laos based on the few...
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Step 6
*In Luang Prabang: Luang Prabang is one of the most gentrified cities in all of S.E. Asia. It's Unesco status has created Carte Blanche for fancy-pants hotels and restaurants to charge whatever they feel they can rake in. If you're not wearing $100.00 bill Underoos, then head back behind the big temple hill upon arrival. There are a series of Guesthouses back a few streets along the river that are well priced (Thai/Laos average for budget travelers) and they are quite beautiful. If you stay along the Mekong riverfront, expect to pay at least $50.00 a night.
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Step 7
*In Vientiane: Other than avoiding the darker back streets at night, as in any bigger city, there is really not much to worry about here. I might recommend taking a walking stick about in the evenings, as the dogs are rather aggressive if they gather into groups. When you are ready to move on, DON'T book your bus at the hotels! Just get a Tuk-tuk to the bus station, and book there. You'll pay half of what the agencies are trying to charge!
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Step 8
* All in all, the Lao people are incredibly open and will approach you to make contact. I was taken aback at first, as this was markedly different than in Thailand, and I was suspicious. I quickly learned to relax, and enjoy getting to know the people of this very laid back and welcoming culture. Don't miss the great fruits and produce, and the national dish "Laab", the world-class Lager beer "Beerlao", and the hearty soups full of cress and mint leaves. You will miss it when you go!
