Things You'll Need:
- New Filter Media
- A Garden Hose
- A Scrub Brush
- A Bucket
- Rubber Gloves
- Pool Filter Cleaner or pH-
- Time (which varies for each different filter system)
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Step 1
Good filtration is one of the keys to having a successful pool that is clear and sparkling.
In order to keep up appearances, your filtration system needs to be kept in good working order. Not just the parts that comprise it, but the filter media that is the catalyst for change in your pool clarity.
Cartridge Filter, D.E. Filter or Sand Filter, each must be looked after in a different way. -
Step 2
First, the Cartridge Filter is a common type of filtration system. A lot of people buy small inflatable pools from the large chain stores and they all have cartridge filter systems.
When your water clarity begins to go south, better change your cartridge. Simply replace the old with the new while the filtration system is off.
The old cartridge can then be soaked in a bucket containing either Pool Cartridge Filter Cleaner, or, pH-. Both of these liquids are acidic, so don't put your hands in the solution. Let it soak overnight, but make sure that children and animals will not have access to the open bucket of caustic chemical. What we're trying to accomplish is to burn the dirt right off the filter.
The next day, wearing rubber gloves, you should remove the cartridge from its acidic bath and hose it off with a garden hose. Remember that this solution is acidic and will kill grass wherever it touches. Dump the bucket on some crab grass or weeds that you don't want if nothing else.
Most people with small pools don't bother going through this procedure. They simply throw the old cartridge away.
However, there are Cartridge Filter systems where the cartridge can cost upwards of $150.00, so those folks aren't throwing anything away prematurely. -
Step 3
The next filtration system that we'll talk about is probably the most common across the country, a Sand Filter. Of all the filters, this is possibly the hardest one to clean.
A clean cannister with fresh sand at the beginning of the year is a blueprint for great filtration, but a hot summer has a way of making plans of it's own.
Okay, so your Sand Filter isn't quite keeping your pool water as clean as it was. What's the problem?
Well, my first question is what does your pressure gauge read?
The pressure gauge is attached to your Sand Filter and it's purpose is to let you keep track of how hard it is for the water to push its way through your sand inside of the filter. When you first turn your system on at the beginning of the year, lets say with fresh sand, make a mental note of what the reading on the pressure gauge is. Is it 10 ppi, which is 10 Pounds of pressure Per square Inch? If so, treat that as your benchmark. In other words your gauge, although it goes as low as zero, is registering 10 ppi right away. So, whenever you turn it on, and its functioning at peak efficiency, it should read 10 ppi.
Now, as the days go on and your pool use increases, things are going to start getting trapped in the sand, and that's what we want to happen! The by-product however, is that those extra small, little things getting trapped in the sand make it harder and harder for the water to try and push through. The openings between the granules of sand are starting to plug up with junk and that water has fewer and fewer pathways through the sand. So that's why the pressure builds up.
Your filter valve on top of the sand cannister should have four or six ports or settings. One of these settings is marked Backwash. What you need to do with the system off is to switch your system from filter to backwash. Turn on the system and stay alert.
What we are now doing is sending the pool water into the cannister, but we have reversed the flow of the water. So, now instead of the sand trapping particles as it has been doing, we are now sending that water through the sand to clean it from all of the debris it has captured. -
Step 4
Your filter valve should have what they call a sight-glass, which is a small clear bottle screwed into the top of the valve head. During the normal course of filtering the water in the sight glass should appear clear. However, in this backwash scenario, that sight glass will be showing you dirty looking water as it passes through the glass on its way out of your waste port. Watch it carefully and stop the system when it begins to run clear again inside of the sight-glass.
Remember, that it's your pool water that is spewing out over the hill, so don't walk away after you start to backwash or you'll run your pump dry and ruin it.
Now, with the system off, switch to the rinse setting and turn it on briefly. This will settle your sand back down. Switch to filter and your in business again. -
Step 5
Your sand should be good for about 3 or 4 years. To keep it in good working order, it is recommended that you treat it with a sand filter cleaner at mid-season and end of season.
Some people don't really care to do this, because of the repeated cost of the cleaner and it needs to sit in the sand inside the cannister overnight and then be backwashed out. There is a concern by some that some of the chemical may accidentally get back into the pool, so rather than taking a chance, they just buy new sand. -
Step 6
If you're putting in new sand, look at your cannister to see how much sand it requires. #20 Silica Sand is the industry standard, with grain size being between .35mm and .55mm.
Turn your system off. Screw appropriately sized plugs into the inside base of your skimmer and in the return inlet fitting. You'll have to first remove the eyeball fitting that is in there. This will stop the water flow to and from your pool.
Unscrew the top screws around the perimeter of your filter valve, but mark the top and bottom sections so you can put it back together exactly as it came off. If it goes on any old way, you might filter sand back into your pool because the inside compartments no longer match up.
Carefully remove the entire valve to expose the sand. Using a cup or your hands carefully remove the sand for disposal. Remember the word carefully, because at the base of the centered tube are a series of slotted fingers that look like the spokes of a wheel. Damage to any of those fingers means that you'll need to replace it before going on, or else when you turn it back on, the sand will go through the hole in the finger that you made and will shoot into the pool. -
Step 7
Get all of the sand out. You'll note that the fingers are on a pivot, which makes them easy to fold up and removal of the center tube easy. If they don't fold, then carefully unscrew each of them and remove the center tube.
Clean the cannister with water and a scrub brush. Do not use soap. We want a pool not a bubble bath!
Replace the center tube and unfold or screw in all of the fingers.
Make sure that the whole device is centered and cover the top of the tube with a piece of tin foil to prevent any sand from going into it.
Pour the sand slowly using a cup or your hand as a buffer between the sand and the fingers. If you just dump a 50 lb. bag of sand on top of them, they may break and then all is for naught.
Add the full amount of sand that is recommended. but not more. More is not better in this case.
Remove the tin foil on top of the center tube and replace the valve just as it came off. Make sure that the section of tube attached to the valve actually goes into the center tube completely.
Replace the screws and remove the plugs.
Your ready to start filtering again. -
Step 8
If you have a D.E. Filter system you need to follow your manufacturer's instructions on cleaning. The same method for cleaning a sand filter applies, always be careful and put things back the same way that they came apart.
The fingers that your system has are not hard plastic, but can very easily be damaged as well.
