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How to Shoot a Muzzleloader

Contributor
By Kochava R. Greene
eHow Contributing Writer
(1 Ratings)
Re-enactors using muzzleloading rifles.
Re-enactors using muzzleloading rifles.
Photo from biggamehunt.net

Muzzleloading rifles have come a long way since the days of Daniel Boone and the earliest explorations of North America by settlers. Even in the last 30 to 40 years, says muzzleloader expert Gary Engberg, the gun and the accessories needed to use it have changed significantly, including the development of new bullet types, substitutes for the traditional black powder and even scopes designed to use with the rifles. Learning to use a muzzleloader isn't hard, and with game wardens and states opening up new special hunting periods just for those who use the rifles, it can be well worth the effort.

Two kinds of muzzleloaders are available today: the inline and the primitive. Primitive muzzleloaders are the closest to the guns from the 18th century; the user puts loose powder down the barrel, followed by a pellet or bullet, before firing. Inline muzzleloaders still require the user to load the bullet down the barrel one at a time, but these guns don't need loose powder, relying instead on shotgun primers and small, powder-loaded discs that explode and fire the bullet. If you choose to use a primitive muzzleloader, you'll also need to decide whether to use a caplock or flintlock. The caplock, in which the hammer hits a tiny cap of nitroglycerin to ignite the powder, offers a more rapid reaction. The flintlock, in which the hammer strikes a flint to create the spark to ignite the powder, has a slower reaction and most closely resembles the guns used in the Revolutionary War, according to hunter Gary Hubbell.

From Quick Guide: All About Muzzleloaders
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Flask for holding powder Powder measure Ball starter for inserting the ball/bullet Percussion caps and flints Capper Black powder or substitute such as Pyrodex
  1. Step 1

    Cock the hammer to half cock and place the butt securely against the ground. Some hunters bring along a non-skid piece of matting on which to place the butt while loading.

  2. Step 2

    Measure out the minimum powder charge specified for your muzzleloader using the powder measure and pour this into the barrel. Usually you will use one grain of powder per caliber of rifle; for a .54-caliber rifle, use 54 grains of powder. Hubbell recommends never using more than 120 grains of powder and never using smokeless powder as its more powerful charge can cause the barrel to explode into shrapnel.

  3. Step 3

    Use the ball starter to seat the ball as far down the barrel as you can. Once you have gotten used to the placement of the ball, mark on your ball starter or ramrod how far you will want to go down each time you load. You don't want any air between the ball and the powder.

  4. Step 4

    Bring the hammer to full cock, making sure that you are pointing away from any fellow hunters and anything you don't want to hit. Place the butt securely against your shoulder.

  5. Step 5

    Aim carefully and squeeze the trigger. If your gun has two triggers, pull the rear trigger first; this will set the forward or "hair" trigger. Most muzzleloaders will have a big kick, so be prepared.

  6. Step 6

    Clean the bore of your rifle every 10 to 20 shots to keep it free of debris and shooting consistently. For the best accuracy, says Blaine S. Nay, founder of Ol' Buffalo Muzzleloaders, swab out the bore after every shot.

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