How to Install a Stair Runner

Rug stair runners are a top-notch improvement for your home, and with some sweat equity and dedication to task, you should be able to do a straight staircase with the aid of one other person, the right tools and time. It will add value to your entry, foyer or staircase simply because it deadens noise---the tramp of traffic---and adds pattern and life to an area that is sometimes very dull.

So let's take a look and see if this is your next diy project.

These instructions presume you have measured and selected your rug and appropriate padding.

Things You'll Need

• Carpet of appropriate width and length Carpet pad (recommended not too soft) Cloth measuring tape Ruler or yardstick Tackless stripping Sheet metal snips to cut the tackless strip Black wax crayon Hammer Heavy-duty power staple gun 9/16-inch staples Hammer Tack hammer Blunt chisel Rubber mallet Sharp blade to cut carpet #16 carpet tacks Latex carpet glue Knee kicker

Instructions

Setup, Work Step by Step, Bottom Up

1. 

   Clean the steps so there is no debris or anything to interfere with smooth application. Tackless stripping needs to be cut first. You will need pieces about 1 1/2 inches less than the width of your rug. Do some marking, too: Find the center of each strip, and also make a mark at the center where the riser meets the tread; put a hash mark at the back of the tread.
   Attach a piece of strip at the back of the tread approximately 1 inch from the intersection of the stair and riser for thin rugs; or approximately 2 inches out for the thicker variety. Make sure the strip tacks are facing back toward the riser. (Plan so that the strip has a nail within a couple inches at each end for proper hold.)

   A second strip needs to be affixed at the bottom of the first riser. Make sure they are centered, and, again, 1 inch up from the floor for the first step or adjust up to 2 inches for thicker carpets; repeat on every step.

   With this second strip, the tacks need to face down to the tread. So, in other words, you have a strip near the back of each stair, and another strip near the bottom of each riser.

   Repeat for all steps.

2. 

   Cut the carpet pad so it matches the width of the strip, but make sure it overlaps the nose of the tread in length by about 3 inches. This makes it easier to pull, drape and nail the carpet over the step nose, yet still be able to attach securely at the bottom of the riser. Staple the pad to the front >edge< of the tackless strip, but not on it. Space the staples about every 3 inches for a proper hold. Stretch the pad tautly over the nose of the step and staple every 3 inches again, to an area under the nosing (see illustration). It's called the "waterfall" effect. Repeat with every step.

   Note: A professional often clips the corners off the pad around the nosing so the pad is not seen beneath the carpet.

3. 

   It's time to lay the rug. One school of thought is to lay the carpet top-down. We are going with a more professional installation and with the aid of a rented knee-kicker and mallet, work to ensure the rug is tight. Center the rug and fix it so that the bottom is against the floor and running up the riser.

   Run a staple across the end of the rug every 3 inches, affixing it into the bottom of the riser.

4. 

   Now the carpet is attached to the tread. Make sure everything is still lined up. With your hand, push it toward the tackless strip. Position the edge of the knee-kicker about 2 inches from the center of the riser. With one hand, hold down the knob. Make sure the shaft is level, and give it a kick with your knee. With this action, the rug grips the tackless strip and should become stretched tight.

   Repeat this same motion about every 3 inches or so until the carpet feels taut.

5. 

   The blunt chisel is used with the aid of the mallet, making a good crease between the tackless strip and the riser. When this is achieved, place a staple into the crease near both ends of the strip where the riser meets the tread.

   More stapling is applied to the edge of the runner just near the bottom of the riser, about 2 inches from the bottom. Repeat this process all the way to the top.

6. 

   Cut the runner to line up with the underside of the nosing. Use the latex carpet glue to keep the edges from unraveling; you can wait a few minutes for it to dry. Then staple along the top of the riser and edges, about every 3 inches.

Tips & Warnings

• Measure each step instead of trying to center it by eye. • The metal snips make it much easier to cut tackless strip. • Find the direction of the carpet pile; run your hand over it, and it will lay smoothly in one direction better than the other. Install the runner with the pile lying facing you and facing down on the risers. It is not so prone to dirt this way. • Wiggle the stapler into the carpet pile and deep into the backing, then pull the trigger. • Whenever the runner doesn't engage the strip, it can be lifted straight up off the strip and done again. • Installing finials rods into the crease of the stair is a truly professional and traditional effect. If your budget permits, it will be worth the effort. • Rug fringe can be folded under for a clean edge (that's preferable among carpet installers).

• Carpet should always be stapled directly to the stairs---not into the pad. • Unless you are confident with installation, curved stairs should be done by a professional.

Resources

• Jacobsen Rugs: How to Measure for Your Rug
• Jacobsen Rugs: How to Install a Runner
• Installing a Stair Runner on a Straight Staircase