How to Build a Display Easel

Easels are commonly regarded as a stand an artist uses to support his canvas while he paints. They can also be used as display stands for informational items, pictures and artwork, or as support for blackboards and whiteboards. Crafters with woodworking skills can build an easel in a few hours and even customize it to meet their needs.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• 3/4-by-9-by-84 inch wood board 3/4-by-4-by-60 inch wood board Table saw Band saw Disc sander Protractor Radial arm saw Miter saw One carriage bolt Drill Router Orbital sander 80 grit sandpaper, 120 grit sandpaper and 220 grit sandpaper Bar clamps 2 Leg braces 18 Flathead wood screws 2 Roundhead wood screws Wood glue 1 Spring loaded chart clamp 1 Magnetic white board Nail gun 4 Rubber bumpers 2 Leg latch assemblies 6 Machine screws Bass hook 4 Flat washers Latex wood dough Clear finish - urethane, lacquer or Wood stain

Cut the Pieces

1. Join one edge of the two boards together.

2. Cut four legs 1 1/2 inches wide with a table saw. Mark a 3/4-inch radius arc on one end of each leg. Use a band saw to cut the arcs and then sand with a disk sander.

3. Measure 74 inches from the rounded edge of each leg, and mark a 77-degree angle with a protractor. Use a radial arm saw to cut the legs.

4. Make holes for the carriage bolts. Find the center of the arc on each leg and mark. Drill 1/4-inch holes.

5. Cut a piece 1 1/2 inches wide from the longest board. Cut lengthwise. Use the radial arm saw to cut two boards for the leg braces. Each piece should be 26 inches long.

6. Plane the remaining part of the board until to a 5/8-inch thickness. Cut a 1 1/4-inch-wide piece down the length of the board. Cut 28 inches from this piece for the tray front.

7. Plane the smaller board to a thickness of 5/8 inches. Use the radial arm to cut it into two pieces 28 inches long.

8. Rip a board 3 1/4 inches wide for the tray back and then 2 1/2 inches wide for the tray bottom. Use a table saw set to an angle of 77 degrees.

9. Plane the board to a 1/2-inch thickness and then rip two pieces, 9/16 inches wide, for the leg latch assemblies. The table saw should be at 90 degrees.

10. Route the arc on the top edge of the tray front, from both sides, using a router and a 5/8-inch round-over bit.

11. Use an orbital sander to sand the legs, leg pieces and tray parts. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, follow with 120-grit sandpaper and then finish with 220-grit sandpaper.

Assemble the Parts

1. Attach the leg braces. Measure 16 inches from the end of each leg, then use bar clamps to clamp the braces between the legs. Drill two holes in each leg for wood screws and remove the clamps. Apply wood glue to the ends of each leg brace, and then attach the braces to the legs with wood screws.

2. Measure 3/4 inches up from one leg and brace assembly. Attach the magnetic white board at this point with six wood screws.

3. Attach the spring-loaded chart clamp. Clamp the magnetic board with a spring loaded chart clamp and drill four 1/8-inch holes through the back of the board and the clamp plate. Open the clamp, place four nails in the holes and secure with the lock nuts.

4. Assemble the tray. Apply wood glue to the tray bottom at the 90-degree edge, clamp it to the tray front and attach them securely with 1 1/2-inch nails and a nail gun. Apply wood glue to the 77-degree edge of the tray bottom, clamp the tray back to it and nail both pieces together. Set the tray aside to dry overnight.

5. Attach the tray. Clamp the tray to legs, 30 3/8 inches from the bottom. Drill a hole at each end of the tray back. Remove the clamp and apply wood glue to the back of the tray back, 3/4 inches from each end. Use wood screws to secure the tray to the legs.

6. Attach the rubber bumpers to the bottom of each leg with nails. Put a carriage bolt through two legs with a flat washer between them and tighten the bolt with a wing nut. Repeat for the other two legs.

7. Attach a bass hook to one end of each leg hatch, and cut the opposite ends to 77 degrees with a miter saw. Mark 25 3/4 inches from the bottom of a leg, clamp the leg hatch at this point and drill a 1/8-inch hole through the end of the leg hatch and the leg. Place a flat washer on a machine screw, insert through the hole and tighten with a nut. Repeat this process for the other legs.

8. Insert a round head wood screw into each rear leg, leaving at least 1/8 inch between the screw head and the legs.

Finish the Easel

1. Examine the wood for holes, cracks and other imperfections. Fill with latex wood dough and wait for it to dry.

2. Sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Apply a wood stain and wipe off 10 minutes later. Apply a second coat after six hours and let the wood dry.

3. Apply a thin coat of clear finish and allow to dry. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper, wipe the shavings off, then apply a second coat of finish. Apply additional coats as needed.

4. Learn to build a professional easel. Read "The Artist's Studio: How to Build Your Own Professional Studio Easel" by Alexsandralyn Stevenson (see Resources).

Tips & Warnings

• Match the wood dough to the stain.

• Avoid mistakes. Verify your measurements before you cut.

Resources

• Build a studio easel with "The Artist's Studio: How to Build Your Own Professional Studio Easel" by Alexsandralyn Stevenson