Things You'll Need:
- Buffing wheel Combination square Masking tape Drum head Shell Wood dye Foam brush Wood putty Wet/dry sandpaper in 220 or 320, 600 and 2000 grit Dish-scrubbing pad Can of compressed air Urethane or lacquer
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Step 1
Examine the edges of your shell and look for gaps in the wood, which will shorten the life of your finished drum. Fill them with wood putty, pushing in as much as possible to fill the spaces, then set the shell aside to dry.
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Step 2
Sand the dry wood putty smooth. Place the shell on a soft surface, such as foam or a towel, to protect it from scratches while you work.
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Step 3
Sand the shell. Sand the outside of the shell with 220- or 320-grit sandpaper until it is smooth. Buff the shell with a scrubbing pad until it shines.
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Step 4
Dye the shell. Dip the corner of your foam brush into the dye and brush it over the surface of the shell. Wait for the first coat of dye to dry and then reapply. Repeat this process five times for six coats of dye on the shell. Apply more, if desired, to achieve the shade you want. Set the shell aside for the dye to dry.
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Step 5
Buff the shell. When the dye has dried, buff the shell with a scrubbing pad until it is smooth.
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Step 6
Clean the dust off the shell with compressed air. Clean the inside of the shell as well.
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Step 7
Spray a thin coat of urethane or lacquer. Let the shell dry for at least 30 minutes before applying the next coat. Apply a total of three coats. Let the shell dry overnight in preparation for the next step.
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Step 8
Sand the shell with 600-grit wet or dry sandpaper to take off the high spots. Follow the grain when sanding, and use gentle strokes. Dry the shell off when the sanding is complete.
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Step 9
Apply three more coats of urethane or lacquer. Wait for the each coat to dry before applying the next.
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Step 10
Sand the shell with 600-grit sandpaper. Follow this with 2000-grit sandpaper. Polish the shell with a buffing pad and rubbing compound.
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Step 11
Place a drum head and loop on the shell. Place a piece of 2-inch tape on the shell to mark the location of the rod hole on the hoop. Use a pencil to mark the tape under the center of the hole on the hoop. Repeat this step for the other holes on the hoop.
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Step 12
Make a centerline on each strip of tape, using the mark you made. Find the center of the shell and mark with your pencil.
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Step 13
Measure the distance between the shoulders where the mounting screws will be and divide by 2. From the center mark, make two marks for the two lug-mounting holes. Place the lugs on the marks to make sure the holes match the marks.
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Step 14
Place a strip of tape between the tapes for the lugs. This is for the butt, vent and strainer holes. Use the marks on the adjoining lug tapes to find the center on the new strip.
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Step 15
Drill the holes using a 1/8-inch drill bit. Drill the holes again with a drill bit the same size as the holes in the lug.
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Step 16
Route the inside of the shell on a routing table, pressing firmly as you turn. Work the bearing edge to about 30 percent of the shell's thickness on the outside and 70 percent on the inside.
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Step 17
Mark the center between the butt and strainer holes for the snare bed. Measure 1 3/4 inches on the left and right sides of the mark and draw a line. Cut into this line with the router until it's as deep as you want it.
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Step 18
Sand the outside of the bearing edge with 600-grit sandpaper. Follow with 2000-grit paper. Polish the shell with a buffing wheel and rubbing compound. Buff with a buffing cloth.
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Step 19
Assemble your drum. Attach the lugs to the shell, and then attach and tune the resonant head. Install the snare wires, then the batter head and the hoop.
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Step 20
Learn to play snare drums. "Master Technique Builders for Snare Drum: Actual Daily Practice Routines Undes" by Anthony Cirone contains exercises from master percussionists (see "Resources").
