How to Replace a Clutch in a Ford Ranger
Replacing the clutch in your Ford Ranger is fairly simple and takes about two hours. Your Ranger’s clutch should be replaced every 90,000 to 100,000 miles, sooner if it the clutch plate shows wear or fails. A new clutch for a Ranger typically costs $100 to $200, depending on the brand.
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Things You'll Need
- Clutch kit (includes clutch disk and pressure plate)
- Clutch-alignment tool (if not included in clutch kit)
- Screwdriver
- Metric wrench set
- Jack
Instructions
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Remove the Old Clutch
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1
Remove the exterior parts, including the floor shifter inside the cab of your Ranger.
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2
Disconnect the exhaust pipe.
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3
Remove the interior parts--the parts under the hood. This includes the starter, which is attached to the transmission bell-housing.
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4
Disconnect the drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder.
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5
Use a jack to raise one side of your truck.
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6
Using a metric socket set, undo the transmission cross-member and bolts, which will allow you to remove the transmission from your Ranger.
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7
Remove the pressure plate and the worn clutch disk.
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8
Inspect the clutch flywheel. If the flywheel shows significant amounts of wear or is damaged in any way, you should replace it.
Install the New Clutch
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9
Install your new clutch disk and pressure plate using a clutch-alignment tool.
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10
Put the transmission back into your Ranger, and reconnect the cross-member and all related bolts.
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11
Reconnect all interior parts under the hood, including the starter, drive-shaft and the hose for the hydraulic slave cylinder. Make sure you bleed the slave cylinder when you reconnect the hose.
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12
Reconnect the exhaust pipe and re-install the shifter inside the cab.
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13
Drive your Ranger slowly in a controlled environment, such as a parking lot, to make sure the new clutch is installed properly and is in good working condition.
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1
- Photo Credit shift stick image by BaSSaBaS from Fotolia.com
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Comments
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capemh
Sep 27, 2010
I got to the top bolt on the passenger side with a box wrench and a 8" long 1" copper pipe, slid over the wrench, for extra leverage, to "break" the bolt and then just the wrench to work it out. On the driver's side, the bolt was easier to get from underneath, reaching up. I didn't have 3' of extensions and it took a while, since I couldn't do more than a 1/4 turn at a time on the passenger side (plus I was dealing with tendinitis in my left arm). But I didn't have to drop the exhaust to do it on the 2.3l engine. Make sure you keep track of where the bolts came from, since they are different lengths all around the bell housing. I just used a cardboard box with holes cut in it to represent different locations on the bell and put the bolts in the corresponding hole. You might as well replace the slave/throw-out cylinder, as it's less than 50. -
rhombus2
Sep 09, 2010
2 hrs my $%&. I replaced clutches in other cars so I kind of know what I'm doing but this one had me scratching my head a few times. The hardest part was getting the 2 bolts out on top of the bell housing. There are a total of 8 bolts holding the trany onto the motor. I had to drop the trany about 3-5" and use about 3 feet of extension to get to the bolts. I had to lie on my back, guide the 3' extension over the trany and use a flex joint at the end where the socket attaches to the socket. If you don't use a flex joint the socket won't fit flush against the bolt and strip it off. Also make sure to use 1/2 drive. A 3/8 exchanges that long will flex too much and brake. Anyway, this is more like a 6-8hr job if you done one before and you have all the tolls. Just make sure you replace the slave cylinder and pilot bearing at the same time you do the clutch. Good luck.
