How to Build a Pull Shed

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Maybe you have a large piece of property and you can’t decide where you want your shed to go. Or you have several places where you could use a shed but those needs change with the seasons. The answer to these various dilemmas might just be the construction of a shed on runners which can be pulled around by a truck or tractor to whatever location you desire. This unusual style of building is popular in the North Country, where they can be dragged across the snow.

Things You'll Need

  • Two or three 4- by 6-inch timbers that are several feet longer than the shed
  • Bow saw or hand saw
  • Circular saw
  • Saw horses
  • 2-by-4 framing members
  • Plywood
  • Roofing paper
  • Planking for siding
  • Box nails
  • Door hinges and latch
  • Galvanized #16 box nails
  • Hammer
  • Three heavy duty eye hooks
  • Three pairs of heavy duty T hinges (at least six inches long)
  • Three large eye hooks
  • Electric drill

Shape the three 4 by 6 timbers into runners for the base of the shed. Choose timbers that are twelve feet long. The shaping can be done by setting each timber on a pair of saw horses and making the cuts with a hand-held bow saw. Each runner should come to a point at both ends of the piece of timber. The cut should begin at the front and rear tip and continue for two or three feet in a gentle slow curve until it meets the bottom of the timber. These cuts do not have to be perfect, but they do have to follow a gentle curve. They can be also be made with a chain saw.

Set the three timbers on level ground after they have been cut and shaped. They should be three feet apart. A concrete garage floor would be ideal. Now build the frame for the floor using 2 by 4's. Make the frame ten feet long and eight feet wide and run the framing members across the eight-foot length.

Nail the frame of the floor to the three runners using #16 galvanized box nails. Keep the frame square and space the frame so the overhang is equal on each side of the outside runner. Also space the frame so the runners extend past both the front and back of the shed.

Cover the floor completely with 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood.

Build the two side walls with 2 by 4 framing members. A 16-inch wall spacing will work fine. One wall will be 9 feet high and the other wall will be 8 feet high. Each wall will be 10 feet long. Build each wall as a single unit and be sure to include a top and bottom plate, then put them into place on each side of the building atop the frame from the wall. Temporary braces will be needed but the bottom plate can be nailed to the frame of the floor.

Cut the bottom plate only for the rear and front walls and nail these two boards (they will be 2 by 4's) to the floor.

Cut the roof rafters from 2 by 4's. Each rafter should be 10 feet long and placed two feet apart. Overall you will need six to cover the 10-foot length of the building. Nail the rafters to the shed with overhangs at both sides.

Fill in the back wall with 2 by 4 vertical studs that are 16 or 24 inches on center. Cut each 2 by 4 so that it fits into the rafter above it.

Cover the roof and the three framed-in walls with 1/2-inch exterior grade plywood.

Frame in the front wall leaving an opening that is six feet wide and seven feet high for a doorway. Use a double header on top and put double posts (2 by 4) on each side. Cover the rest of the wall with more of the 1/2-inch exterior plywood.

Build a pair of doors from plywood or planking to neatly fit into the opening. Hang the doors with 6-inch T hinges.

Cover all walls and the roof with heavy grade roofing paper and 1- by 3-inch furring strips that run vertically. Be sure to wrap the tar paper around each corner.

Insert one large eye hook into the end of each runner. Now your shed on a sled is ready to be towed.

Tips & Warnings

  • Actual siding can be placed on top of the tar paper. Tyvek can be used instead of tar paper.
  • Make sure you have a motorized vehicle or draft horses that can pull the sled.

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