Things You'll Need:
- 2 - 2' x 4" x 8' pressure treated
- 18 - 2" x 4" x 8'
- pencil
- 10 lbs framing nails
- 2 - 1/2" green board drywall
- 5 - 1/2" backer boards
- 5 lbs drywall screws
- backer board screws
- framing square
- skill saw
- screw gun
- jig saw
- at lease 5' long water level
- concrete nails and concrete nail gun or anchor bolts, concrete bit and hammer drill
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Step 1
First use your water level on the existing wall draw a line on where you want the new wall to tie into the existing wall. Mark the wall from the ceiling to the floor then mark the floor too. Measure from the ceiling to floor, you are going to have bottom plate and a top plate, you need to subtract that from the measurement and cut your studs, at lease 5 studs for one side of the stall.
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Step 2
When you cut your bottom and top plates, you are going to extend your wall 2" from the shower base edge. Cut the plates and start building your new wall with the studs at 16" on center onto your top, you are going to double the studs at the end that does not touch the existing wall, on the valve side' s wall you need 2 studs 12" apart from the center of the wall for the valve to mount into.
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Step 3
With your studs nailed to the top plate, install the bottom plate to the floor and secure it with anchors or nail gun. Mark the location of the studs on the bottom plate. Lift the wall up and put the top plate flat against the ceiling, push the studs over to its mark and toe nail them.
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Step 4
After securing the wall to the existing, top plate to the ceiling, bottom plate to the floor you can dry wall the outer walls and install backer boards on the shower side of the stall













Comments
vili said
on 2/17/2009 Thanks for the recommendation Casey its charging me up to write some more.
CaseyCarlton said
on 2/16/2009 You are quite handy. Good job explaining plainly what has to be done. 5 stars and a recommend