Things You'll Need:
- Barn, shed or garage space
- Cages (size depends on the size of the rabbits you choose)
- Crocks for feed and water
- Rabbit Pellets
- Patience
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Step 1
You have decided to give rabbits a try--whether it is for the kids 4-H project or just a hobby. Perhaps you have heard that rabbit meat is one of the healthiest meats you can find. All white meat and low in cholesterol. Check with local ordinances to see if there are any restrictions regarding the keeping of rabbits, especially if you are in a town or city.
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Step 2
Where to keep your rabbits? Barns and sheds are great. If you do not have access to a barn or shed, perhaps a corner of the garage will do. If you do not have a building available then you may want to build a hutch to house your rabbits.
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Step 3
What kind of rabbits do you want? Rabbits come in all shapes and sizes. There are commercial breeds bred primarily for meat production such as New Zealand, Californian, and Satin to name a few. Commercial rabbits are larger and at maturity weigh 9 to 11 pounds. There are fancy breeds that are smaller such as Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Netherland Dwarf, Mini Lop, and Angoras. One of my favorites is Rex because they are a dual purpose animal. They have fur that is like velvet to the touch and are large enough at 8 to 10 weeks to make a great dinner. You can also just decide to raise crossbred rabbits. A great reference for rabbit info is arba.net This is the homepage for the American Rabbit Breeders Assn.
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Step 4
What type of cages are you going to need? This depends upon the type of rabbits you are going to buy. Smaller breeds can use smaller cages ranging from 18X24 inches to 24X24 inches. Smaller breeds would include Dwarf and Mini breeds. Larger breeds will need larger cages ranging 24X30 to 36X36.
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Step 5
Where to get your rabbits? There are many places to look for rabbits now. The internet can provide you with rabbit breeders in almost every state. I like rabbittrader.com and craigslist.com There are other sources as well. You can check your local newspaper, farm store bulletin boards, county extension office, or find a local rabbit club via arba.net
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Step 6
What your rabbits should cost? This, of course, depends on the purpose you are wanting to use the rabbit for. If you are wanting to start a family project that might include the kids showing in 4-H prices can start anywhere from $15 to $1000. Typically, many breeders offer stock at $20-$25 per rabbit. This may not be the rabbit that will win Best of Show, but will be showable and free of disqualifications. Pedigreed (a 4 generation breeding history) stock will cost a little more, but will give you comfort in knowing that the breeder is legitimate and reputable. Pedigrees are also a great tool for keeping track of your rabbits.
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Step 7
How many rabbits do you need? This depends solely on the purpose you are wanting the rabbits for. If you are purchasing stock for your kids 4-H project--a pair, buck and doe will do. This will give everyone involved a chance to be familiar with the rabbits on a small scale. If you are looking to start breeding meat rabbits to cut your grocery bill, a trio(2 does and 1 buck) will get you started. If you are certain that this is the hobby for you and you are looking for absolute success, I recommend five does and two bucks.
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Step 8
Do I want related or non-related rabbits? This is a very controversial question and there are strong opinions for and against. Rabbit breeders work very hard to tweak their bloodlines to produce the best animals that they can for their purpose. Line breeding is taking two animals with common ancestors and breeding them together. Out crossing is taking two non-related animals to breed. If you outcross you never know what you might get in a litter. Line breeding assures you that the animals will conform to what is on the pedigree. You may also hear the term 'inbreeding' being used. This is breeding closely related animals together, ie brother/sister, father/daughter, and mother/son. The product of these breedings will not be deformed three and five legged bunnies. Instead, many people use this as a test of their bloodline to see what they need to work on. You will see the best animals and the worst animals in this breeding. Culling is essential no matter what type of breeding program you choose.
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Step 9
I have chosen my rabbits and now I am ready to breed for my first litter. Now what? When the rabbits are of age to breed you will take the doe to the bucks cage. Does can be very territorial and may not like intruders in her cage, even another rabbit. The buck will mount the doe and when finished breeding will fall over. Temporarily he may not move for a few seconds and may even let out a squeal or get up and stomp about in their cage. At this time, you will mark your calendar that you bred this pair and count out 30 days which will be when you offer a nestbox to the doe. Happy waiting!
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Step 10
When to add the nestbox? Around day 28 is a good time to prepare the nestbox. There are many types of nestboxes available commercially or you can google plans to make a nestbox. A nice grass hay or straw makes a great material for the doe to make her nest with. The doe may start acting anxious picking up the hay or straw and moving it to the box for nest making. She will start pulling hair off of her sides and belly area making a hair nest. Most does take less than an hour to give birth to give birth to their young. After she has settled down and is out of the box then you will need to check the box to make a head count and remove any afterbirth or dead babies. Most does do not have any issues with this. If your doe acts possessive and grouchy, you may want to give her a treat. After all, she has had a hard day. I check my nestboxes morning and evening. At day 9 the babies will start to open their eyes. If you have made it this far--you are well on your way to starting your own rabbitry. Good Luck!
