How to Make Wooden-Frame Basement Storm Windows
Storm windows are an affordable alternative to replacing your existing windows with double-panel models. Adding an extra layer of glass between your window and the outside air creates a pocket of insulating air that hinders the loss of heat from the house to the outside. It also helps keep cold air in during the summer.
Although adding storm windows is much more affordable than upgrading all of them to energy efficient models, it can still be quite pricey. Thankfully, you can build your own for the fraction of the cost of commercial models.
Essentially, storm windows are just a thin frame of wood surrounding a glass or acrylic glass sheet. We will be building our own using inexpensive materials. The frame will be made out of 1-by-2 boards, and acrylic such as Plexiglass. This window is then held in place by friction and a layer of foam between the edges of the storm window and the inside of the existing window's frame.
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Things You'll Need
- 1-by-2 boards
- Acrylic sheet
- Miter box
- Utility knife
- Drill
- Wood screws
- Clear silicone caulk
- Self-adhesive trim foam
Instructions
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Measure the inside of the window's frame, and write the measurements down. This will be the size of the finished frame, minus 1/8 inch on each side to account for foam padding. Cut the first length of 1-by-2 board. This should be the length of one side of the window frame, minus 1/4 inch (1/8 inch on each side). Using a miter box, cut each end to a 45 degree angle so that the longest part of the 1-by-2 is the desired length of the finished product.
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Cut the other three lengths of 1-by-2 board until you have a square frame that is just slightly smaller than the existing window frame. Using a router, make a groove on the inside of each of the boards. This groove does not have to be very deep, but it should be at least 1/16th of an inch thick. This will be the groove that holds the acrylic glass in place.
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Measure your acrylic glass. It should be the same size as the inside of your wood frame, plus the depth of the grooves on either side. For example, if your frame is 2 feet wide, and you cut 1/16th inch deep grooves, the acrylic sheet should be cut to 2 feet and 2/16ths of an inch wide. Sketch your measurements onto the acrylic, then gently score around the sketch with a utility knife. Score it several times to develop a somewhat deep groove, then snap the acrylic sheet along the lines by bending it until it gives. This will produce a clean cut with minimal effort.
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Place the wooden frame around the acrylic glass, resting the groove around the edges of the acrylic. Attach each corner of the frame together using wood screws and an electric drill. Place a line of wood glue at each corner for added strength. To make sure the finished seal is airtight, run a line of clear silicone caulk along the joint between the frame and the acrylic. Repeat this caulking process for the other side of the frame.
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Use a thin sheet of self-adhesive trim foam (check the "energy efficiency" section of your local home improvement store) to line the inside of the window frame with. Make sure the foam is where you want the finished storm window installed. Using gentle force, press the storm window into place. Only place pressure on the frame of the window, or you could risk popping the acrylic sheet out of place. The foam will provide a snug fit that won't come loose over time. To ensure a good seal, run another line of silicone caulk around the outside of the window frame. This will make it airtight, and will also help hold it in place during strong winds.
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Tips & Warnings
Always take new measurements between windows, even if they appear to be the same size. Slight differences in window frame sizes require adjusted storm window specifications.
Always wear protective equipment such as safety glasses when working with tools.
