How to Replace a Door Panel

If you need to remove a door panel for replacement, gain access to lube the window track, replace a power window motor, lube or repair lock & latch linkage, replace a blown stereo speaker, or do auto body repair/waterproofing, you will need a few simple tools and basic knowledge of door construction.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Door Panel Removal Tool
• Phillips Screw Driver
• 1/4" Socket Set

1. I recommend searching the entire door for metal fasteners, before trying to pry the plastic clips out. Unscrew the lock knob, if it protrudes through the top of the panel. If there is a pull strap, pry off the cover plates and remove the attaching screws. Search all around the arm rest. If there is an ashtray, take it out and remove the hidden screw. If there is window/lock switch, remove it and the screw beneath. If there is a mirror control knob, check for screws that might penetrate through the door panel.

2. 
    
   Retaining clip

   After everything else has been removed, roll the window down, before pulling the retaining or 'Jesus' clip to release the window crank. This clip got it's name from the Omega shape. You can make a small hook out of a length of solid 14-16 gauge copper or steel wire. Push inward on the panel and insert the hook between the handle and the plastic washer. The loop of the clip will be inline with the handle, one direction or the other. Once you have it hooked, pull slowly. Be very careful not to lose this clip!

3. After all of the obvious fasteners have been removed, it is time to reach for the door panel removal tool. Insert it between the door panel and the sound-dampening paper and slide it along until it hits a plastic clip. Pull it out slowly, and reinsert it with the clip between the opening. Prying against the door, pull the clip out. Proceed to the next, until all are extracted. It may be necessary to raise up on the panel clear the lock rod. You may also need to pull the door handle outwards, before you can slide the panel off.

4. If you need to gain access to the inside of the door, carefully remove the sound-dampening membrane. This membrane also blocks out drafts. You should treat this with respect! Since you now have access to all the inner workings of the door, this is the opportune time to lubricate the window track, lock and latch mechanisms. Without reinstalling the locking clip, slide the window crank onto the splined shaft and roll the window up. Or, in the case of electric windows, plug the switch back into the harness. Carefully, direct a spray of white lithium grease on all of the linkage joints and window tracks.

5. If your door has no membrane, or it is damaged beyond repair, you should make an effort to recreate one. This can be done, using 3-mil plastic or roofing felt. Cut it to match the shape of the door panel. At least, cut it to cover all of the openings on the inside of the door. Make cutouts for the door handle, arm rest bracket, window crank, and speaker, as well as for all of the plastic clips. You can attach it to the door with double-stick tape or small dabs of silicone caulk. Take my word for it, it's well worth the effort!

6. Replacement is in reverse order of removal. You will most likely have to line up the lock rod and door handle first, before setting the upper lip of the panel into the door's opening at the window. Be sure the window is rolled down and out of the way.

Tips & Warnings

• To reinstall the window crank, first install the retaining clip into the slot on the collar of the crank. Then, holding the crank in the desired position, press it onto the splined shaft until the clip snaps into the groove.
• Since you have the door panel removed, this would be a great time to lubricate the window track, Lock & Latch linkage with white lithium grease!
• If you do not reinstall a SOLID membrane between the door and panel, you will most likely have to crank up the stereo and the heat or A/C to compensate for the road noise and draft!
• © 2009. All Rights Reserved. Questions? [e-mail]