How to Tune & String a 12-String Guitar

12-string guitars sound beautiful...when they're in tune and the strings still resonate. Here's how to tune and re-string a 12-string. If you've never changed strings before (or only done it a few times) this will be a pain (that's where 'moderately challenging' comes in) but if you've changed strings on a 6-string, this will be a (time consuming) piece of cake.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• 12-string guitar in need of tuning and/or re-stringing
• Set of new strings for 12-string guitar
• tuner (I use a chromatic tuner, got it at Guitar Center for about $20)
• optional but highly recommended: guitar polish, a guitar string tool (with winder on one end and snippers on the other), a neck brace of some sort (they sell a special tool for this but rolled-up towe
• means of cutting the string ends if you don't have a winder/clipper tool (nail clippers will work, if you don't mind destroying them)
• a flat surface, such as a table or kitchen counter, on which to do the deed

1. 
   Here are my tools. The winder/cutter is probably the most important (next to the tuner.)

   First, get organized. Assemble your tools, the new strings, get the guitar, and clear off a comfortable workspace. You will be standing for at least a half-hour, so make sure the workspace is at a comfortable height. Your tools should consist of a means to support the neck while the guitar is on its back (towels or books will do if you don't have a stand); something to cut the strings with (nail clippers will do, if you don't mind destroying them); a guitar tuner; and (optional but very recommended) guitar polish, cleaning cloth, string winder, and a pair of pliers to coax out the bridge pegs. Regarding strings; I chose Fender phosphor bronzes because they were $7.50. This isn't my main guitar, so I decided to be frugal. This means that I'll probably be changing them again in about a month or three. Strings range from $7.50 all the way up to around $25 (or more) for the fancy coated kind. There is an argument for the coated ones because you change them less often, but some players don't like the rather slippery 'feel' of them; also, some claim the coating deadens the strings. It's purely subjective. If you like the feel and the sound, and can afford them, they are a practical choice.

2. 
   Removing that @#$! bridge pin...it was STUCK firmly.

   I like to remove and change the strings one at a time, starting with the low E (the one on the "top" of the guitar, if you're holding it in your lap as if you were to play it.) The reason for this is two-fold; first, it maintains tension on your guitar neck, which keeps the neck 'straight,' which will help the strings stay in tune down the road; and second, there is less chance of losing the bridge pins. Start with the tuning peg closest to you. Turn it clockwise, you will hear the note getting lower. Turn it all the way down until you can pull the string away from the fretboard. Gently pull the string out of the tuner. Now take your needlenose pliers (or similar implement) and gently coax the bridge pin out of the hole. If it's been awhile since you've changed the strings, it may be difficult to remove. You can wrap a bit of cloth around the pin head to protect it from the pliers. Once the pin is out, remove the old string from the hole. Now is the time to clean the fretboard, if you have the polish. Even if you don't, it's a good idea to take a soft cloth and rub it over the fretboard to remove dust, grime, and dried-up bits of skin (ew.)

3. 
   The new string is in the hole, and the bridge pin is going in place.

   Take the .028 string out of the package (it will be marked .028 on the envelope.) Carefully remove the string from the envelope. It's coiled and under tension, so be careful not to let it whip open and snap you in the eye. You will notice a small 'ball' on one end. This goes in the hole. Look at the bridge pin you just removed; see the small groove running down one side? This side goes toward the string. Place the string in the hole, then put the pin in the hole. Pull up on the string til you feel it hit the pin. Press firmly on the pin.

4. 
   The string is on it's second pass, with the 'knot' on top and the string coiling neatly below

   Now thread the other end through the hole in the tuner. Pull the string all the way through, then at about 1-1/2" past the tuner, bend the string at the hole to help it stay in place while you wind. Turn the tuner counter-clockwise; the string should go over the top of the end on the first go-round, then under for the subsequent ones. Here's where the winder will become your best friend. Continue winding the string, meanwhile keeping tension on the string (with your other hand) by pressing it against the fretboard. This will keep your wraps nice and neat. It's normal for the bridge pin to pop up a bit; if it does, just push it back in again. Also, you may hear the string vibrating higher and higher, then all of a sudden it goes low again; it means that one of your 'winds' has fallen off the coil, and you just need to keep winding. Don't try to tune the string at this point; just get it approximately in pitch. Next, clip the excess string from the tuner. You can leave about 1/8-1/4" inch.

5. 
   The finished product. Note the strings all go 'over the top' of the tuners

   Repeat 11 times. Be careful when you are threading your tuners, to make sure the strings go 'over' the top of the tuner. You'll need to go counter-clockwise on both sets of tuners. As long as you do, you'll be fine.
   Here are the gauges of the strings. These are 'lights.' (I prefer light to extra-lights, because the neck of this guitar is as wide as a baseball bat, and my fretting fingers get all chewed up from the 12 strings. If you use mediums or extra lights, the gauges will be different.)
   
   Low E pair: (1st string) is an E 1 octave higher than low E (.028)
   (2nd string) is low E (.048)
   A pair: (3rd string) is A high octave (.017)
   (4th string) is A (.038)
   D pair: (5th string) is D high octave (.012)
   (6th string) is D (.030)
   G pair: (7th string, or 1st peg on other side of guitar) .009
   (8th string, or 2nd peg--counting from top of headstock) .024
   B pair: (9th string, or 3rd peg) .014
   (10th string, or 4th peg) .014
   E pair: (11th string, or 5th peg) .010
   (12th string & last peg) .010

6. 
   Yay! My D string is in tune!

   Now it's time to tune your axe. If you have a chromatic tuner, your job will be considerably easier. If you don't, and a piano is handy, use it to tune the lower octave strings, and then go from there. Also, there are lots of resources on the Internet where you can hear (and download) midi sounds of what the tuned strings should sound like. This article also is assuming you have a regular acoustic 12-string without pickups built in. If you have a pickup, then plug in your guitar to the tuner. The rest of the steps will be the same.
   First, let's concentrate on tuning the 'regular' or bottom octave strings. Hit the 2nd string (low E) and watch your tuner. Most moderately-priced tuners have lights to indicate when you're in tune. Turn your 2nd tuner either clockwise or counter-clockwise until your tuner shows you're at E. Proceed to tune the rest of your lower octave strings (these are the 2nd, 4th, and the 6th, on both sides of the headstock.) B and E are the same, so the last 2 sets can be tuned at the same time.
   If you don't have a tuner, but can get the E note from either a pitch pipe or a piano, you can do the job 'manually.' Get the low E string in tune. Then press down on it at the 5th fret and that will give you the low A note. Tune the low A (4th peg) while you are hitting the low E string (2nd peg) at the 5th fret. Continue for A and D. When you get to G, however, you will need to press down at the 4th fret to get the correct note for your B strings. Then press on the 5th fret of the B string (again) for your E strings.
   Now the real fun begins. If you don't have a tuner, to tune your high octave G, press down on the 3rd fret of your 1st string (high E.) Tune your high G to that.
   For high D, press the 3rd fret of your 2nd string (B.) Tune the D to that.
   For high A, press the *second* fret of your 3rd string (G) and tune accordingly.
   Congratulations! You're done! Now it's Miller time--and you have earned it. ;-) Enjoy your newly strung and tuned guitar.

Tips & Warnings

• A tuner is definitely a big help, especially when you get very good at tuning and want to try alternate tunings (like Jimmy Page or Keith Richards.)
• A winder is also a very useful tool. There are winder/cutter tools that are even more useful, and are very inexpensive.
• A fairly easy song to learn on the 12-string is "Wanted Dead Or Alive" by Bon Jovi. There are lots of good tab resources on Teh Internetz, just Google "12-string songs" and see what you come up with. I believe Heart's "Dog and Butterfly" was also done on a 12-string.
• This article presumes you know how to play guitar; but for the newb players out there, you play a 12-string just like a 6-string; pretend you're playing a regular guitar (i.e., hold down both sets of strings at the same time) and you'll get used to it very quickly. You'll want to take it easy at first, if you're not used to a guitar with 'high' action, but once you get over the soreness, the 12-string really is a kick in the bluegrass!
• Those cut strings can be extremely sharp! Be careful when disposing the old strings.
• Eye protection is not a bad idea, especially when dealing with old strings.
• Also, be very careful when loosening or tightening old strings; they have a tendency to snap and can hurt, if you get the end in your eye or across your hand. Watch out for the G strings--they tend to be the worst culprits.
• Be patient. It won't come out perfect the first time you try (nor the second, nor the fourth...) but like everything else, the more you do it, the better you get at it. Remember, if you think you've completely messed it up, you can always take it to your local guitar repair shop and shell out $20 for the repair guy to do it. If you ask nicely, he might show you how to do it...but don't get huffy if he doesn't want to share his methods and let you take away his work. ;-) There's always YouTube, if you're the "show me" type.