How to Build a Basement Shower
Installing a basement shower means you must install a drainage system, tee it into the existing drain in the home and then you must install the necessary hot and cold water lines. This is not a project for the novice DIY homeowner as it requires a moderate amount of demolition and reconstruction. Using a preformed shower stall is one way to help simplify the project. Preformed stalls install easily. Allow extra time for connecting all necessary plumbing. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Chalk
- Chalk line
- Walk behind or circular saw
- Masonry saw blade
- Sledgehammer
- Shovel
- Drainpipe boots
- Tee
- Ratchet set
- Shower drain
- PVC drainpipe
- Hacksaw
- Sandpaper
- PVC cleaner
- PVC glue
- Quick drying cement
- Hammer drill
- Masonry drill bit
- Lag bolts
- Plumber's putty
- Needle nose pliers
- Screwdriver
- Rag
- Faucets
- Showerhead
- Copper pipe cutter
- Copper sleeves
- Solder flux
- Solder
- Blowtorch
- Flexible copper pipe
- Compression sleeve fittings
- Wrench set
Instructions
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Installing the Shower Drainage Pipe
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1
Place the shower stall against the wall where you plan to mount it. Make sure you leave adequate room between the back of the stall and the wall if your water lines plumb to the back. Mark the drain hole onto the concrete and then trace the outline of the shower onto the floor so you know exactly where to place it later.
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2
Locate the main drainage line buried under the concrete. Use a chalk string to snap two parallel lines from the marked drain location to the main drain. Place each line approximately 12 inches away from each other.
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3
Cut the concrete with a walk-behind or circular saw equipped with a masonry blade. Most concrete is approximately 2 inches, so set the depth of the blade slightly deeper than 2 inches. After you cut both lines into the concrete, break the concrete up with a sledgehammer and then remove it.
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4
Shovel the gravel and dirt out of the trench where you removed the concrete until you have a hole slightly deeper than the level of the main drain.
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5
Place the rubber boots onto each end of the main drain tee and place the tee against the main drain. Draw a line at each end of the tee so you know where to cut.
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6
Cut the section of main drain out with a reciprocating saw, if the drain is PVC, or with a cast iron cutter, if the drain is cast iron.
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7
Slide the rubber boots onto each end of the main drain and then slide the tee into the rubber boots. Tighten the clamps on the rubber boots with a ratchet and socket.
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8
Place the shower drain where you marked the hole. Position the top of the drain so it will rest level with the floor of the shower. If necessary, pile gravel into the end of the trench so you can prop the drain in place.
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9
Measure the distance between the tee and the drain for the shower with a tape measure and then cut a section of PVC pipe with a hacksaw to fit the measurement.
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10
Deburr the ends of the pipe with sandpaper and then clean each end with PVC cleaner. Spread PVC glue around each end and slide the PVC pipe onto the tee and then onto the drain.
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11
Fill the trench with gravel and dirt and pack it under the drainpipe to support it. Pour quick drying concrete into the trench and level it with a trowel.
Attaching the Shower Stall and Drain
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12
Place the shower stall over the drainpipe and mark each mounting hole located on the base of the shower onto the concrete. Place the shower stall off to the side.
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13
Drill holes at each mounting hole location with a hammer drill and masonry drill bit. Use a drill bit half the diameter of the lag bolts you plan to use to secure the stall.
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14
Put the shower stall in place and line it up with the holes. Thread the lag bolts into the holes as far as you can with your fingers and then drive the bolts into the floor with the socket and ratchet set.
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15
Place a bead of plumber's putty around the hole for the drain and then thread the drain into the drainpipe. To do this, place the jaws of your needle-nose pliers into the X bracing in the drain and then place a screwdriver through the handle of the pliers. Turn the pliers clockwise to tighten the drain. Wipe up the excess plumber's putty.
Connecting the Hot and Cold Water Lines
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16
Turn off the main water supply to the house and run water through a sink faucet until water stops coming out.
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17
Install the faucets and showerhead to the shower stall. The process differs greatly depending on the type of faucet and showerhead you purchase. Follow the directions supplied with the units to ensure proper fitment and installation.
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18
Locate a copper hot water line in the house and cut out a section of the pipe large enough for a water shut-off valve installation. Use a copper pipe cutter to ensure you obtain clean cuts.
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19
Slide sleeves onto each end of the cut pipe and then place the shut-off valve onto the sleeves. Place solder flux onto the ends of the sleeves and then solder the sleeves in place with a blowtorch and solder.
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20
Solder a threaded compression fitting coupler onto the open end of the shut-off valve in the same manner as you soldered the shut-off valve to the copper pipe.
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21
Measure the distance between the faucet valves on the shower and the shut-off valve. Cut a section of flexible copper pipe to this measurement. The use of flexible copper pipe allows you to use couplers and it avoids the need to measure and cut elbows.
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22
Place a compression nut onto one end of the copper pipe and then slide a compression sleeve onto the same end.
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23
Thread the compression nut onto the coupler on the shut-off valve and then tighten it with a wrench.
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24
Solder a threaded compression fitting coupler onto the hot water faucet if the faucet does not already have a threaded coupler attached.
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25
Place a compression nut and sleeve onto the other end of the copper pipe and then secure the copper pipe to the faucet.
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26
Repeat this process for the cold water connection.
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1
References
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