How to Frame a Photograph for Gallery Exhibition

Art galleries expect a certain level of quality in the framing of a photograph. A properly framed image will protect the photograph from damage and preserve its value for the buyer.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Metal frame
• Mat board
• Mat cutter
• Glass
• Screwdriver
• Picture frame wire
• Adhesive photo corners
• Canned air

1. Select a simple metal frame one size larger than the photograph you are trying frame. 5x7 photos should be framed in an 8x10 frame, 8x10 frame in an 11x14 frame, etc. Do not fall into the trap of making your artwork too large or by selecting a frame which takes attention away from the photograph. You can't go wrong with a basic black metal frame.

2. Attach (mount) your photograph to an archival quality "mat" board. Boards are available in a large variety of colors and textures. A simple off-white light cream color will compliment nearly any photograph without being too distracting. Use photo corners so that no adhesive comes in contact with the image. The photo may be centered or placed about 1/2 inch above center.

3. Lay on top a second piece of mat board which has a window opening on top of the photograph. The window should cover the image on all sides by about 1/8 of an inch. Take care to hide the mounting corners as well. Traditionally, mats are cut with a 45 degree bevel using a mat cutter or may be purchased pre-cut to a standard or custom size. A hinge of starch linen tape can be used to attach the top mat to the bottom mat.

4. Assemble the lower three sides of your metal frame together using supplied hardware. Clean and slip in a piece of glass. Glazing comes in a wide variety of styles which may include UV protection and anti-glare, but will be far more expensive than ordinary glass. Slip behind the glass the mat board with your photograph. A piece of foam board can be added behind the mat to insure the image remains flat.

5. Stand the image up straight and use canned air to blow out any dust specs before securing the top edge of the frame. Some frame styles have leaf springs which provide tension to keep the mat board flat and pressed against the front of the frame. Be sure to select a frame style which can accommodate the glazing, mat board, and leaf springs. Attach hanging wire across the back about 1/4 way from the top edge. Protect the frame from scratches during transport attaching foam or cardboard corners.

Tips & Warnings

• Use a high quality mat cutter. As a rule, the less expensive a cutter is the more difficult it is to use.
• Anti-glare glazing looks better on glass than on plastic.
• Special plastic glazing is available which is unbreakable and scratch resistant, but requires special tools to cut. Find plastic glazing pre-cut.
• Balance time vs. money. The more framing steps you do yourself the less money you will spend.
• Some mat boards have chemicals added to keep a neutral ph, but they can bleed the colors of your photograph. Use unbuffered mat board. Look for "rag" mat.
• Photographs should be able to be removed from the frame without damage and without coming into contact with adhesive or chemicals.
• The photograph must not be left in contact with the glazing else it the emulsion will adhere to it.
• Never use masking tape, Scotch tape, or materials not designed for the preservation of artwork.
• Never apply adhesive to any part of the photograph and never use "dry mount."
• Always provide a method for hanging the frame on the wall of the gallery such as a hanging wire on the back. Some galleries have special hanging systems.
• Always have a mobile photograph repair kit for gallery exhibitions which includes several spare pieces of glass, mat board, frames, and tools in the event it is dropped.

[Bearie23]

on 1/28/2009 Great suggestions.

[mpodlesny]

on 12/22/2008 good tips

[davau]

on 12/22/2008 The last comment was a bit to long. Sorry.

To finish the thought.

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Also, if the gallery hanging system uses cables, and if they are inclined to set multiple objects in vertical stacks on the same cable, you will also find great benefit from using a "Frame Stabilizer" on all but the lowest frame in the vertical stack. You can see more about Frame Stabilizers and a wide variety of other hanging hardware at www.ASHanging.com.

[davau]

on 12/22/2008 Thanks for informing the readers of these issues. In one portion of the article you mention that some galleries us special hanging systems. I wanted to address this a bit more. While most any framed piece that will hang from a nail in a wall will also hanging from a hanging system, here are some additional tips for preparing a frame to be professionally hung from a hanging system. When using a hang wire on the rear side of the frame;
• more that wire higher up on the frame to perhaps as high as two inches from the top edge, and
• remove the excess slack in the hang wire as in this case it should be fairly taught.

If you follow both of these tips, the framed piece will hang quite nicely on the wall and not as likely to hang away from that wall.

Also, if the gallery hanging system uses cables, and if they are inclined to set multiple objects in vertical stacks on the same cable, yo

[argyle]

on 12/22/2008 Thanks for all the tips! I'll have lots of photos to frame after the holiday season.