How to Gild an Object
Do you love the look of burnished gold? What about a bust done up in bronze? Have a decorative box that you think would look great in silver? If you'd love to get the Midas touch, then gilding is your medium. It's fun, fast (as far as craft work goes) and the end result packs a glowing, rich and transformative punch for almost any object you can think of.
Gilding as a process is moderately easy. All you need are the right tools (they are often sold in kits), patience and objects you want to enhance. You will be using real or imitation gold or silver leaf. The precious metal--in the form of leaf--can be used on metal, glass, plaster, wood, leather, furniture and even canvas.
Things You'll Need
- Gilding kit or:
- Newspaper and drop cloth
- Vinyl gloves
- Gold or silver leaf
- 3 good paintbrushes
- 1 soft burnishing brush
- Soft rags
- Painter's tape
- Base or "bole" coat
- 1 or more books of leaf
- Size adhesive
- Toner paint (optional)
- Acrylic protective topcoat or wax
Instructions
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Preparation and the Process
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Make sure your surrounding work area is covered with newspaper and a vinyl or drop cloth. Not only do you want to protect other surfaces, but you can reuse the leaf on other projects. Also, do not work under a blowing vent or near a fan.
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If you would like to gild a wood photo frame, for example, lightly sand the surface with fine grit sandpaper and wipe the dust away with a tack cloth. Oftentimes if you like the look of an antique, you do not need to sand the finish smooth but leave a textured surface (you can also gild fruit, which could not take a sanding).
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The sanded surface then needs to be painted or primed with a base color. Use painter's tape to mask off any areas you want to remain the same and rub the tape hard at the edges so the paint or finishes don't bleed through. There are specially made primers called bole for gilding that creates a high-quality foundation. Black, dark brown and red ochre are all good choices. A double coat of thinly applied primer is best. Allow the items to dry thoroughly between coats, and at the end.
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A product called a size is brushed on next. This is an adhesive that grabs the leaf and begins the sticking process, which is called the tack. (There are both water- and oil-based sizes.) If the surface grabs and feels tacky, that's what you want. (The time needed depends on humidity and the temperature around you.) The size will typically dry clear and goes from wet to almost dry.
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The metals come in thin sheets--so thin they float--called a book. Carefully separate from the protective paper and lay a leaf on the sized surface with a rolling motion. (After you get good with it you can use a brush.) Don't press too hard, but work the leaf to get good adhesion.
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Tips & Warnings
You might want to wear gloves so you don't leave fingerprints on the leaf. If your leaf object will be used in heavy traffic or near water, it must be sealed with an acrylic found in the kit generally. There is also an edible gold leaf that can be applied to food.
Leaf metals will scratch.
Resources
- Photo Credit Clipart.com
