How to Make a Concrete Electric Motor Pad

This process for making a concrete pad for an electric motor is for a standard 2-foot square pad sufficient for an electric pool pump motor. This can easily modified to the size needed for anything up to 4-foot square with moderate weight disbursed evenly. Anything larger, like a patio or larger, or for weight over 5000 pounds and with uneven spacing or concentrated weight in one location, needs modification to meet codes. For heavy weights or larger areas, the pad needs to be 6 inches with fiberglass filler mixed in the lower 3 inches and with rebar for reinforcement. The rest of the procedure remains the same.

Things You'll Need

• 3 50-pound Bags of dry mix concrete
• 1 Bag of gravel
• 1 2 x 2-foot Sheet of stucco screen or wire

Instructions

1. Using a tape measure, stake off the area for the intended pad to be dug. When doing so, measure 2 feet 4 inches by 2 feet 4 inches to allow for the 2x4 forms. Dig the area out to a depth of 3 ½ inches. Scrape the dirt out of the last ½ inch so you do not loosen the ground at the bottom.

2. Measure again for accuracy. Using a 2x4, tamp the ground down, making it as solid as possible and level at the bottom. Cut the 2x4s with these lengths. Cut two boards 2 feet long and two boards 2 feet 4 inches long. Lay the 2-foot boards parallel and the 2-foot 4-inch boards as the caps on either end. Using a tape measure, make sure the hole is big enough and that you indeed have a 2x2 inside diameter. Stake the boards on the backside to the height of the boards. Kick the boards lightly outward and make sure they are solid.

3. Lay a 2x4 on edge across the forms, and then lay a level on the 2x4 and make sure that the form is level. Check in both directions. If not level, tap with a hammer or dig more dirt until the form is level.

4. Pour the gravel in the form and tamp it down as level as possible. Mix one bag of cement with enough water to make a thick, but not too wet. You should see water floating on top of the cement. Too much water tends to promote cracks when dry. Pour the cement in and level it with a Teflon floater. When you move the floater, keep the leading edge slightly raised and use slight pressure as you smooth out the cement. Tap the floater around the edge of the forms with an up and down motion to get air pockets out and push the cement into the corners.

5. Lay the stucco screen on top of the cement. Mix the rest of the cement and pour it into the form. Push the cement into the forms with the Teflon floater by turning it lengthwise and shaking and pushing the cement into the forms and corners, eliminating air pockets.

6. Lay a 2 x 4-inch board across the forms and, with a sawing motion, screed off the excess and level the pad. With the float, smooth out the surface with the leading edge raised and apply sufficient pressure to eliminate air pockets and move all the material flat against the forms.

7. Wait until the water that works its way to the surface has mostly dried up and float it again slowly as this will be the finished surface. Cover the pad with plastic for the next two days. Mist it with water twice a day. After 24 hours the form can come off, but continue to mist for the next day. The reasoning behind this is that, the slower the cement dries, the less the chance there is that it will crack after a few years.