Things You'll Need:
- 1-2 gallons of muriatic acid
- 5-15# Granular chlorine
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Step 1
Backwash the filter and recharge it if required. The filters going to be very busy soon and it needs to be clean. Clean the pump filter basket if needed.
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Step 2
Test the PH. It is going to be 8.0 or higher. At 8.0 PH chlorine is less than 10% effective!!! Chemically it just can't work. Calculate how much acid you'll need to knock it down to 7.0 PH. Yes 7.0 PH. This reading is neutral. Below 7.0 is corrosive, above 7.0 is alkaline. Chlorine is around 95% effective at this 7.0 ppm level, which is what you need to overcome the algae and combined chlorine in the pool water now. The PH will automatically rise back into the correct range with the addition of the granular chlorine
( 52% strength calcium hypochlorite ) -
Step 3
Add the acid and circulate the water for 15 minutes. This ensures all the water has a low PH.
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Step 4
Next...add 3oz. of granular chlorine for every 1,000 gallons of water.
Example: 25,000 gallons requires 75oz. of chlorine. Sprinkle all around the perimeter with the pump running...and run the pump all night. Pull out the automatic chlorinator tablets until the chlorine level drops back to 2.0-3.0 ppm free chlorine ( pink CL2 test ) -
Step 5
If the pool water is not blue the next day the total dissolved solids are likely too high and you'll need to drain about half the pool, refill, stabilize the water, and shock treat again at 2oz/ 1,000 gallons.
Comments
pmonk001 said
on 6/2/2009 I have a saltwater pool that has turned green. what do I do to stop this