How to Ground a TV Antenna

How to Ground a TV Antenna thumbnail
TV Antenna

A television antenna is likely to be the highest structure on your property, which makes it the point most like to be hit by lightning. To protect your property from extensive damage, it is imperative that the antenna be properly grounded. Static electricity buildup can also be dispelled by properly grounding the antenna. Beyond being simply a wise idea, grounding your TV antenna is the law. The National Electrical Code, along with many local municipality codes, require the grounding of every TV antenna.

Things You'll Need

  • Enough No. 8 or No. 10 copper or aluminum wire to reach from the top of the antenna to the ground
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Cable ties
  • Wire staples
  • Waterproof sealant or metal paint
  • Copper-clad steel grounding rod
  • Sledgehammer
  • Grounding clamp
  • Screwdriver
  • Wire cutters
Show More

Instructions

    • 1

      Loosen one of the bolts on the antenna mast by turning it counter clockwise a few turns with the wrench. Remove any paint or protective coating from the area on the antenna mast where you will be connecting the ground wire. Wind one end of the ground wire around the exposed bolt. Tighten the bolt by turning it clockwise with the wrench. Seal any exposed metal with paint or sealant to prevent rusting.

    • 2

      Run the ground wire to the ground. Secure the wire to the mast with cable ties at four-to-six-foot intervals. If the ground rod is not directly beneath the antenna use a gradual slope in the ground wire and secure the wire to the side of the house using wire staples.

    • 3

      Drive a copper-clad steel grounding rod at least three feet into the ground with the sledgehammer. Optimum grounding is achieved by driving the rod eight feet into the ground. Slide the grounding clamp over the exposed end of the grounding rod and tighten completely by turning the two bolts clockwise with the wrench.

    • 4

      Insert the end of the grounding wire into the grounding clamp. Pull any excess slack from the wire. Turn the screw on the grounding clamp clockwise to secure the wire in the clamp. Snip off any excess wire within an inch of the grounding clamp.

Tips & Warnings

  • The ground wire must contact bare metal to be effective.

  • Unless you feel competent to work on electrical systems in your home you should consider hiring a professional to install and ground your TV antenna.

  • Never bend the ground wire. If you must slope the wire, keep all angles to less than 90 degrees.

  • Never use water pipes to ground electrical devices.

Related Searches:

Resources

  • Photo Credit http://www.technudgelive.com/uploaded_images/TV-antenna-large-4-23-07-775146.jpg

Comments

  • bicsi-tech Oct 04, 2009
    That is a sure way to kill someone. By LAW the NEC requires all ground rods to be bonded together. This article describes how to create a ground potential that can be lethal. Leave the grounding and bonding to professionals that are properly trained. If you add any supplemental ground rod you must (SHALL) connect that rod to the main buildings grounding rod. This prevents lightning from using the path of least resistance. That is the idea but if you have 2 separate rods lighting can jump from one rod to the other looking for the BEST ground. If you bond all rods together then lightning treats them as one single ground with equal potential.
  • tfalter Apr 09, 2009
    STEP 3 COULD BE A LOT EASIER.... I have put grounding rods in for a long time.... and there have ben times when I will win $20 from my coworkers... telling them I can ut a 9 foot rod in with one hand... you take the rod and get a gallon of water... poke the rod into the ground 6 to 12 inches... then pull it out and fill the whole with water... work the rod back into the hole as you pour a little water around it and move it up and down working it into the ground... then when you hit about 2 feet pull it back out and fill the entire hole with water and repete the process... you may have to use thw hole gallon... and if you hit a big rock move the rod 6-8 inches... about one out of 10-12 times I have to hammer the rod a little... the rest I usually sink 9 feet with one hand and no hammers... it's called working smart not hard.... saves a lot of time too... if you hit an area that has been b
  • Lonnie Shurtleff Apr 05, 2009
    Here's a sensible article written in non-technical terms that will actually work. Good job. Lonnie
  • Lonnie Shurtleff Apr 05, 2009
    Here's a sensible article written in non-technical terms that will actually work. Good job. Lonnie

You May Also Like

Related Ads

Featured