How to Apply Bias Tape to a Curved Seam in Three Easy Steps

Putting bias tape on a straight seam is one thing. How does a curved seam (such as a neckline) affect the way bias tape works? Here are instructions for putting bias tape on a curve.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

1. 

   The green bias tape is single fold, and the dark pink is double fold. The finished double fold bias tape hem is narrower, but slightly thicker.
   
   Before you pin or sew the bias tape, lay it on your ironing board and curve it to match the curve of your fabric. Iron it well, using lots of steam.
   
   Fold open one side of the bias tape. Pin it, right side of the bias tape to the right side of your fabric, so that when you sew in the crease of the fold, your seam allowance will be 5/8″ (or whatever seam allowance your pattern calls for). Sew, being sure to stay in the crease line on the bias tape. Trim off excess fabric at the seam allowance.
   
   Clip the seam along the curved area, being careful not to cut into the stitches. This will allow the fabric in the seam allowance to lay flat, without binding and puckering up the curved seam.

2. 

   Fold the bias tape towards the seam allowance and iron. Stitch 1/8″ or so from the edge of the bias tape that is sewn to the fabric. This line of stitching is the secret to a clean, finished edge!
   
   If you are using double fold bias tape, fold it over and around the seam.

3. 

   Fold the bias tape over to the wrong side of fabric. Pin it carefully before you sew to make sure that the fabric doesn’t shift as you are sewing. That will create diagonal puckers from the seam to the top stitching.
   
   Stitch close to the edge of the bias tape. Because of the second line of stitching, it should fold over nicely and give you a sharp edge without any bias tape showing on the right side of your fabric.