How to setup a compound bow: how to get started

This article is meant to help guide a do-it-yourselfer in setting up a compound bow.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Compound bow
• Arrow rest
• Allen wrenches
• Optional items include: Sight (fiber-optic or pin), peep, knock sets, stabilizer

1. Obtain a bow appropriate for your size. A pro shop can quickly fit you with one. You can also pay the shop to set up the bow for you, but if you want to learn to do this yourself, proceed to step 2.

2. There are a few bits of basic knowledge required for adjusting a bow to your body: 1) Adjust the draw weight to a comfortable level. This is achieved by loosening or tightening the two allen heads where the limb is fastened to the main body of the bow, a.k.a the riser. Be careful not to completely unthread these bolts! 2) Many newer bows come with the ability for adjustable draw length, usually by installing different "modules" on the cams. These should come stock with your bow.

3. I recommend installing knock sets on the string. place them just below the midpoint of the string, they will likely be adjusted again later. These are a guide for your arrow to contact the string. Knock sets can come in different varieties: metal crimps, string ties, or rubber sliders (the sliders must be installed onto the string before the string is installed on the bow). I typically place 3 metal crimp knock sets on the string with two below and one above the arrow.

4. Mount the arrow rest to the riser. The threaded mount holes are located within a few inches above the hand grip. The riser will jog over just below the rest, making a type of plateau under the arrow. You can now adjust your arrow level by inserting an arrow (with a knock installed on the end) on the string between the knock sets and placing it on the rest. Adjust the left/right qualities of the rest and the height of the knock sets until the arrow is perpendicular to the string and parallel with the rotational direction of the cams.

5. At this point the bow can technically be shot, although I recommend the installation of a few more items: 1) a fiber-optic sight bracket with 3-4 pins. 2) A stabilizer. 3) A peep.
   
   The sight bracket mounts above the arrow rest in the threaded holes. The stabilizer mounts on the front of the riser just below the hand grip. The peep is tied into the string at a height that when looked through in full draw, the line of sight is approximately parallel with the arrow.

6. Sight in (Although I will go over building arrows later, this step assumes that you already have arrows sized to your draw length and ready to shoot). Place yourself exactly 20 yards from an approved target with an appropriate backdrop. You can use fingers or a release to draw the bow, I use and prefer a release. Draw the bow and look through the peep, and find your sight bracket in your field of vision. Now locate the target, and steady yourself so that the top pin in the sight bracket is exactly centered on a point on the target. Release.

7. Most likely your arrow impacted in a very unexpected location. This is normal. You now need to adjust your sight bracket to correct the problem. When you adjust your sight bracket remember that the bracket follows the arrow. In other words, if your arrow hit too far to the left and too high, you will move the bracket left and up. Repeat this as many times as necessary until your arrow hits as expected. Unless you have special reasons not to, it is normal to use your top pin for 20 yards, the 2nd for 30, then 40 and so on.

Tips & Warnings

• Everyone has a slightly different preference for a setup, therefore this is only a guideline. I highly recommend that you tinker with your setup ALOT and make it your own.
• It is easy to become fatigued and shoot inconsistently, especially when sighting in. Practice will build up endurance and muscle control. If you suddenly find yourself shooting inaccurately with no noticeable indication of equipment movement, it is likely that you are in need of a break. It is not usually a good habit to second-guess your equipment if you sighted in properly and secured everything firmly at that time.
• Do not loosen the draw weight bolts too much or the limbs will literally fly off the bow.
• when taking your first few shots with a new setup, ensure that you are shooting in an area where even the strangest of arrow trajectories cannot cause harm to people or surrounding objects
• Do not, do not, DO NOT dry-fire your bow! This means never release the string without an arrow attached to it, it can and will cause severe damage to the riser and cams.

[duranes6132]

on 8/11/2009 DISCLAIMER: im not an expert by any means.

Without actually touching a bow theres no way anyone could tell you the best fit for you. a few things will set limitations for you.

1. you draw length.. everyone is diferant that being said every bow is diferant. some bows just wont accomidate a small shooter, some wont fit larger shooter. i have a 30" draw lenght. find out what yours is before you start to shop.

2. draw weight... how much tension can you put on your arms before it gets uncomfortable? im pretty strong but i sting wont use a bow that set at 80#. figure out what is comfortable for you before you buy.

3. $$$$$. as with anything worth it, bows cost money. anywere from $250-thousands depending on what your wants and needs are. personally im not a millionaire, so i went with an eco-freindly MISSION X3, $350 for the bow, $70 for a TRU-GLO sight, $50 WHISKER BUISKIT, and $40 ...

[firstshot]

on 7/15/2009 I am wanting to buy my first compound bow. What can you tell me about what to look for, type, etc. I would like to get one that I can add to later.